Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 216 Threads: 26
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Location: Fife
Before we start, i have my tin hat ready and suspect some will need to take cover!
Lastnight i removed the front end from my pearl to get to a leak on the nose cone. The radshell surround and 99% of other bolts are all metric. As this was already done prior to my ownership this was out with my control, but if it were your car, would you replace with the "Correct" imperial fittings, and if so, why?
I have another seven under restoration, and i need to shortly refit all the bodywork, so do i use metric which are cost effective and easily obtained or do i go and source the imperial equivelent. My personal view is i fit metric and use the money saved on other modern upgrades such as silicone gaskets, LED lights and so on......
Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 367 Threads: 14
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Location: Western Brittany (France)
So you answer your question! Which is fine for me.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 216 Threads: 26
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Location: Fife
Yea, i guess i did, i just wanted authorization from the floor...
Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 367 Threads: 14
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Location: Western Brittany (France)
Oh, I'm very down under the floor mate!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,249 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
My personal view is "whatever". What's more important in my view is that the car is used rather than cossetted. I have used metric SS nuts, washers & bolts for rad shell location, as well as wing fixings because (a) they are easily sourced here in France and (b) I know they will always come apart again. The purists may choke on their cask conditioned hand pulled pint, but franchement, je m'en fiche.
As a fellow scot, John. Dinnae waste yer bawbees!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
Our car was restored before we got it. There are M6 bolts all over the place. When I find one I always replace with 1/4 BSF. It's confusing having a mixture and means I have to carry 2 sets of tools which is irritating.
The Whitworth thread form is actually better than metric. It's stronger and also seems less likely to seize up in my experience. I've always hoarded used BSF bolts and prefer to use them rather than new if it is a visible position. Retains the original appearance for no cost.
I'm not a purist but I do a lot of miles and so fit whatever will work best. To that end I have Hardy-Spicer propshaft, upgraded steering arm, Phoenix crank, lightened and balanced flywheel etc. However I always keep the parts removed as they are part of it's history.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 858 Threads: 47
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1926 Top Hat 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
My feelings on this are driven, as usual, from a practical point of view. I tend to use metric nuts and bolts to secure wings and body parts that will not need to be dismantled in the near future. Where dismantling takes place more frequently (e.g. rad shell) I use BSF fittings at 5 times the cost. Saves taking a set of metric spanners with me when out and about.
BTW, the original front wing fittings for the vintage cars seemed to be 3/16 BSF dome head screws. The rear wings seemed to be held with wood screws into a steam bent piece of wood, going round the aluminium wheel arch. Probably changed with the AD mark 2 in 1928, together with the introduction of a pressed floor pan and steel inner wheel arches.
Also, 8mm bolts are a good substitute for 5/16 BSF and a 1/4WW spanner "almost" fits!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,215 Threads: 100
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
My own view John is ... well, a bit vague.
If you can fit 'correct' parts I wouldn't use metric, no doubt there.
Some imperial fixings are getting hard to find, then I don't see why a metric bolt can't be substituted at least until one shows up, in order to keep the old girl running. Assuming it does its job properly of course.
I'm not above rummaging in the 'used bolts' bin and cleaning up an old one for non-critical fastenings.
If your car is to be 'shown' and judged then you know the answer. While I applaud the efforts of others here to use exactly correct fastenings, to do so sometimes requires resources of time, energy and cash which are not available to me, so personally I may settle for 'next best'. It depends to some extent on where they are too - if highly visible a modern bolt may stand out like a sore thumb.
A fundamental problem for me is knowing what is 'right' in the first place - all very well striving for originality but what if you can't establish what was original? Something that looks right is perhaps a fair try.
On a purely practical note I often curse the metric bolts which are littered around my Ulster rep, they necessitate carrying more tools and inevitably slow up work while I figure out what the darn bolt is. If I could make it all imperial I certainly would, and perhaps in time I shall. Perhaps future owners will 'bad mouth' you for same.
Final thought - I'd easily rather spend the money on proper bolts than LEDs, which to my perhaps twisted mind are just not right.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 682 Threads: 33
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Location: Lot region FRANCE
Stick to BSF / BSW - only need one set of spanners, only need to take a few spare BSF / BSW nuts and bolts in your tool box. Show me the guy of lady who can at a glance tell a BSW from a metric bolt.
Anyone remember the BAC 1-11 whose windscreen "popped" out during flight because of bolt thread mix ups !
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 606 Threads: 18
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
I had 4 A7's up to last year, 3 were all BSF/ BSW but the 3rd was metric for all body fittings due to me not wanting to fork out for imperial. The landrover I have been rebuilding is a pain because it has BSF/BSW,metric and Unified. Mad!
