Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 858 Threads: 47
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1926 Top Hat 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
Early saloons (R and RK types) appear to have the fixed side and rear windows "puttied" in. When my R type was bodged up cosmetically rebuilt in the 1980's, the windows were put back in with Dumdum putty. This was clearly wrong as the oil from the Dumdum has crept between the layers of the original Triplex laminated glass and left a tide mark of about an inch of brown stain.
Anyone know what the original material was? It was brown in colour and the traces remaining on my car have gone rock hard after 94 years. It wasn't, from the smell of it, Linseed oil putty.
Actually, there may have been two sealers, the stuff sealing the rubber strips at the end of the sliders is different, black in colour and equally hard.
More to the point, what's available to use now? I see some Butyl glass sealers on eBay and wonder if they're useable?? Anybody else crossed this bridge??
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 370 Threads: 16
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Location: Port Elizabeth, Sunny South Africa
Car type: '26 Chummy, '28 Top Hat, '33 Type "65", single seaters
As our R Type is in the resto queue, I'm also very interested in the collective wisdom
Aye
Greig
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 862 Threads: 16
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Location: North Yorkshire
I used black Tigerseal on the Pytchley fixed windows, it seems to do everything you would want?
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 1,917 Threads: 102
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Parazine
The windows on my RK are simply fixed with rubber section. There was a recent thread about what section to use.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,132 Threads: 66
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
I don’t know if it’s the same for other models but on the rear fixed windows of my Mk1 Ruby I used no sealant other than bicycle inner tube split length ways and put around the glass before assembly. The excess cut off after fitting with a very sharp craft knife.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 497 Threads: 13
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Without doubt the best modern material to use for this job is any polyurethane like Sikaflex (there are others).
This is what is used to bond modern windscreens into all cars now.
It is important to really clean well the edges of the glass beforehand to remove any silicone left on the surface of the glass from manufacturing.
You need to work smartly and do all the windows in one session, once the tube is open it needs to be used, it will go off in the tube.
Do wear gloves and remove excess immediately. You can get polyurethane cleaning wipes - very handy.
It will truly seal the edges of the glass and thus avoid de-lamination at a later date.
Don't be tempted to use silicone sealer which although much easier to use is not as good for this job by a country mile.
Hope this helps you.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 858 Threads: 47
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1926 Top Hat 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
Thanks Nick, I'll give it a go. Still painting at present but should be fitting windows in a few weeks....
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 952 Threads: 38
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If using proper bonded Windscreen sealant you will need the little bottle of black primer as well.
If bonded in be sure you have access to cut it out again in the future if needs be, sharp blade and piano wire are the usual tools for removal.Sure way to be leakproof but is pretty much permanent.
