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Austin Ruby seats
#1
Hi, I’m new on here. A friend has an Austin Ruby which needs renovating. The person who he bought it from made a start and I’m going to have a go at reupholstering the seats. Apologies I know nothing about cars! I’ve got Rinsey Mills Austin 7 book and have studied quite a few seats on the internet. I’m starting with the front ones. I would like to do the seat squabs with springs however most I have looked at have a wedge shape to them sloping backwards. Does anyone know if this is achievable with springs or are they all foam? The sprung Austin seat renovation I have studied most on the internet doesn’t seem to have that slope. Regards, Tony


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#2
The Ruby cushion originally used a Moseley Float-on-Air blow-up assembly (I think it consisted of two separate bladders) which was inserted into the cushion 'bag', and which then sat on a shaped metal base. I don't think a spring assembly would work in a Ruby seat.
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#3
Of course you can make slopes with springs, you use different heights in each row.

Not something I would do in a Ruby front seat, though.


I don't own cars with any heritage worth preserving, so I use foam.

Getting the correct foam, which is specified mainly by its density and hardness, in the right grade, in the right thickness,  in the right position, and in the right shape - is not that easy.


What I am trying to say is: is isn't just a case of getting a lump of any old foam and sticking it on the seat base.
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#4
Hi Tony

The Ruby had a wooden frame with a dished steel insert.  As mentioned these had inflatable pads followed by horse hair padding.  You can make an acceptable inflatable pad using an old inner tube.

Hope these pics help.

Cheers

Howard

PS I have two seats and one wooden base available if you want to pm me!


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#5
Howards offer will give you an excellent start, a search on this forum for mosely air cushions will provide modern bicycle large tube replacement options. Modern foam in high density is readily available and cans of spray contact glue, domestic electric carving knife and your angle grinder are your friends. 
Howard's seat backs show wood tacking strips around the backs and there was some thin ply along the bottom inside and out. Depending on your originality intentions its common to sew both the pleated front and plain back into a sort of piped slipcover and simply pull it on and tack at the bottom only.
The stitching of the pleats is always invisible as are the rivets holding the covered panel which wraps around the lower frame .
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#6
(01-07-2020, 01:42 PM)squeak Wrote: [Only registered and activated users can see the links Click here to register] £ 11.97 inc VAT and delivery for a pair. Folded as CG recommends they now fill the envelope properly, are again very comfortable (as long as you only put a small amount of air in them) and the seats look the part and at a pretty minimal cost. I'm delighted with them.

Photo shows as fitted with the larger tubes. They need a thin layer of foam/rubberised horsehair fitting to remove the final, slight, imperfections but it's not a priority; a job for one day, perhaps!

   

Steve

Edited: My tubes were £2.99 each at PlanetX. Just checked their web site and they're now £1.99! [Only registered and activated users can see the links Click here to register]
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#7

.jpeg   CC68F6C4-23DC-4699-B648-70B1D21B34DE.jpeg (Size: 105.72 KB / Downloads: 338) Thank you for your replies. Lots to think about there. I was a bit fixed on using springs but seems like that’s not the way to go. Looking at Howard’s pictures I realised there are two wooden bases which came with the car. Hadn’t thought they were right somehow but now thinking they’re just the job. Will look to buy the fat inner tubes and have a go doing it that way. Our local foam supplier/cutter not currently doing jobs for the public but I’ll keep foam as a possible option. Thank you for the idea of sewing the two sides of the back together and sliding it over. I wouldn’t have thought of doing it that way. Again your help is much appreciated. I really enjoy sewing but I am new to doing car upholstery. Perfection is not going to be an option!
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#8
If you look at page 204  of the What have you done with your Austin seven thread, the first photo shows the tatty interior of a box saloon with the Moseley float on air cushion on the top of the driver's seat.
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#9
As revealed in Steve's pictures, the panel which wraps around the lower frame is attached a smidge {technical term) lower, to expose the  painted metal frame edge. This avoids the chafing when installing the cushions bases.
I first glue the covering over the TOP edge of the panel only THEN rivet the panel on and finally glue the covering down and under the metal frame, thus hiding the rivets.
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#10
antfos  It would pay to take note of Squeadk's suggestions, as he used to do all this for a living.  If you are still determined to use springs (you would still need some high-density foam and sofrt  foam as well as the necessary hessian, furniture webbing etc, a lot of work & expense - it may reassure you that many Seven bodies built here in Australia used the spring set-up.  Or when the Float-on-air cushions soon gave up they were enevitably eplaced by springs with no problems.   Good Luck & Cheers,  Bill in Oz
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