Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 173 Threads: 66
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I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever get back on the road.
Having replaced the clutch plate on my Ulsteroid and fitted this with new ring gear I now have a car that at least starts and runs but when I went to drive it out of the garage for the first time I now have a clutch pedal which is vibrating very noisily.
When I changed the clutch plate I also fitted a new lining (but not to the flywheel) and also very carefully adjusted the fingers to get the correct amount of disengagement. Previously I couldn't engage 1'st without a loud clonk but this now seems much better so this new vibration is really annoying.
I was really hoping to avoid taking the engine out again as I have so little available time I know it will be months before I can get it back.
Any suggestions / advice?
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
Would suggest that you do not have all three of the levers completely equal in height.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 173 Threads: 66
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Yes, that was one of my thoughts but I did actually take a lot of time over setting it up correctly.
The replacement clutch plate had been fitted with riveted in plugs in the bottom of the toggle slots to eliminate wear but these were far too proud of the original (unworn) slot depth so I progressively filed them down until all the toggle levers were the same height relative to the "bell housing". I think it was 5/16" from memory.
When operated the clutch actually feels OK and although I've not really driven it so far the gears engage fine.
The issue is when the clutch isn't depressed and the pedal vibrates and rattles quite noticeably. In this situation I presume the clutch pedal spring is just applying light pressure to the thrust race to hold it against the toggles.
Frustratingly the only option seems to be to take the engine and gearbox out again but I'm not really sure what to look for. If the toggle levers are OK, as I believe, the only other think I suppose would be the thrust race but then it was OK before I changed the clutch.
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 90 Threads: 2
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John although you say you 'adjusted' the fingers, how did you achieve this? The toggle levers as supplied nowadays do not lend themselves to be readily adjusted. Do you have the 3 speed withdrawal race with slotted carrier? Get someone to turn the engine on the handle while you peer through the lube access panel on the gearbox to see the toggle levers move at the same time as feeling the clutch pedal with your hand. It sounds like engine removal to see exactly what is going on will be required.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
this is a three speed box I assume, what sort of condition is the release bearing cage in? If you gave set all the levers to the correct height and they are exactly equal, it could be wear in the cage giving you issues, have you checked the bearing and cage thrust faces are running true.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 173 Threads: 66
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Yes, It's a 3-speed box.
I didn't bend the levers I simply filed the top of the inserts which had been fitted into the clutch plate slots by a previous owner until the depth over the insert was the same as the unworn portion of the original slot. Once this was the same in all three slots the toggle levers were all very consistent relative to a straight edge placed across the crankcase.
The thrust race housing isn't in the best condition and at some time has had three additional slots milled in it so the toggles now bear on a relatively unworn section. The race itself is not brilliant but it's the same one that was in the car before I replaced the clutch plate and although previously the clutch didn't appear to be fully disengaging which made going into first quite noisy I didn't have the current vibration / rattle issue.
To be honest I'm reluctant to take the engine out unless I have some idea what to look for. I suppose one of the inserts in the slots could have moved back under the pressure of the toggles but it did appear to be fine.
Perhaps I should risk a short drive around to see if that reveals anything.
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 90 Threads: 2
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To mill new slots the cage would need to be removed from the bearing, could it have been not refitted properly and thus not spinning true?
Are all 3 toggles free in the posts?
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 1,918 Threads: 102
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi John
Just a thought. Is the clutch lever return spring acting correctly? I was surprised by how much stronger a replacement spring was when I fitted it to my special.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 606 Threads: 18
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
Howard, if it's a 3 speed box there isn't a return spring although there is a pedal stop( bent plate that fits on one of the gbox to crankcase studs).
Dave.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 173 Threads: 66
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David
The milling of three new slots was done some years ago and the bearing assembly hasn't been apart since I originally built the car so I don't think it could be running out.
Howard
Interesting comment as I did wonder about the clutch lever spring. I'm not at all sure about this but doesn't it actually keep the thrust race in contact with the toggles so I guess you wouldn't want it too strong. Does your special have a 3-speed box as I believe the later 4-speed design works more like a modern style clutch with the mouse trap springs keeping the toggles in place and the clutch lever spring holding the thrust race away from the toggles.
