Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 12 Threads: 5
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Location: sussex
Car type: RK Box body 1930
Greetings,
Does anyone have a workshop manual for a Zenith 22FZB.
The carb I have will only run on full choke, then splutters and dies. Have fitted a new needle and seat. Cleaned all the bits as best I can.
Have tried several float heights.
Thanks for looking.
Roy
Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 12 Threads: 5
Reputation:
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Location: sussex
Car type: RK Box body 1930
Thanks Mark R.
It gives good info but not the float height, or how to adjust it.
Roy
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
I think David Cochrane at A7 Components has the manual
Jim
Joined: Jul 2019 Posts: 186 Threads: 41
Reputation:
5
Location: North Wales UK
Car type: Austin 7 RN 1931
It sounds to me like you have a partial blockage further up the fuel system. I've tried to send a scan of the factory carb manual but I can't fathom out how to put the scan onto this email.
Might I suggest that you put an airline to the fuel line and blow it through to make sure that you have a good supply of fuel and also make sure that the carb isn't drawing in air where it shouldn't.
I'd also check that you have the fibre washers in place under the jets.
In the meantime I'll endeavour to try and forward the page from the manual, I bought it from one of the recognised suppliers but I can't remember which one!
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 1,918 Threads: 102
Reputation:
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Roy
The fuel level should be 3mm below the top of the jet cover (according to the Zenith manual). To check this you should take the carb off the car and rig up a fuel supply. Remove the Main jet, replace the bung, then peer down the top of the carb. If the float level is wrong then experiment with the height of collar on the float needle. The collar is soft soldered onto the needle so the needle needs to be heated to move it. Make sure the float needle is not worn. I’ve found that slightly less than 3mm seems to work best for me.
Willie McKenzie at Austin Repro sells lots of FZ parts.
However Barry’s observation sounds likely and in my limited experience the culprit is likely to be the tank. I had to remove the tank on my RK and give it a thorough clean. Rusty crud tends to settle at the outlet. Blowing back simply disperses it and a few miles later it settles around the outlet causing a blockage.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 12 Threads: 5
Reputation:
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Location: sussex
Car type: RK Box body 1930
Hello,
Thank you all for replying, great info passed on. In fact loads and loads.
I sussed the problem yesterday.
Origonaly the carb was dripping badly, so I got a new needle and seat and fitted it.
On start up the motor was backfiring and needed full choke. Old time Mechanics now come in to play, too lean. I moved the needle to give more clearance
and away she went. This took ages to get the correct gap.
Thanks once again to all.
Roy
Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 12 Threads: 5
Reputation:
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Location: sussex
Car type: RK Box body 1930
Hello Ian,
The info is spot on, I will do the check this week all goingg well.
Roy
