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Sliding roof questions
#1
I'm in the process of getting my big seven back on the road but can quite get the sunroof to slide correctly on the rails, is the roof supposed to have a slight curve to it?

If so how can I achieve this, as when I slide the roof back at the moment it just rubs against the metal roof of the car even though it's sitting to high anyway.

Thank you
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#2
The Big Seven sunroof (same applies to the last of the Ruby saloons, 1938-39) is a pressed steel panel and it carries quite a serious compound curvature. The roof should have Mazak rails on both sides and two securing hand screws on a wooden rail at the front. It uses the Mazak rails as a guide; I assume that the inside of the panel had rubber pads to allow it to slide over the back panel and not scratch the paint as there are no external rails as with the earlier sunroof. I always found, both with my late (1939) Ruby and the Big Seven that I had later, that the roof could end up "Skewed" and would be hard to close. I think it needed to be opened and then clamped open with both screws.

The Mazak rails should have holes in them at the rear where a rubber bung was inserted to stop the roof being pushed to the very back.

The roof panel should be painted body colour but I am unsure how the headlining was fixed; it might have been just glued in over a padded layer I suppose.
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#3
Thank you for the answer, although mine seems to have a leatherette covering rather than all steel, I'm just a tad concerned I won't be able to correctly repair this room myself, it either seems it's going to work and not seal correctly or seal correctly but not work  Sad
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#4
My 1938 Big 7 has the Pitchley leatherette roof. There is a compound curve to the wood and metal frame . There is only one rail and locking screw inside on the drivers side. There should be outside rails on the roof and on the underside of the moving part two guides on each side with felt on the upper and lower faces to slide in these. A wooden rail across the front inside with a slot to pull it forward and back. At the rear on the underside there is a rubber strip with a thin metal strip on that screwed on to prevent water getting in. I have recovered it a couple of times inside and out, its quite easy to distort when tacking the lining and outer on but it will be persuaded to fit and slide without rubbing. If i can work it I will put some photos on. Pete

    I hope these help.

More . Photographs. Pete


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#5
Those photos are absolutely fantastic, a great help!

I'm 18 so I haven't had much experience with the certain aspects of a car like sunroofs, interior panels etc.

Although mechanical knowledge from a rotten Austin A30 and a ford 103e that for the first two months gave nothing but trouble ?
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#6
We are now making complete sliding panels for the majority of A7s (although not the all steel type as yet) and can also supply the tracks and other parts for most models.  Photos are of the prototype.


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#7
That frame looks good will you be making the corner piece for the locking screw? You would need that before the lining can be fitted over it. Pete
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#8
Hi Pete. Yes, we can supply the mounting plate for the locking screw. We don't include it as part of the basic roof panel unless specified as the originals (if present) can usually be re-cycled.
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#9
Hmm, interesting. All the Big Sevens I'm familiar with have the all-steel sunshine roof, my own car was a February 1938 model and was so equipped. I wasn't aware that the fabricated, wood framed roof had ever been used on Big Sevens. Another Austin "Mystery"!
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#10
Hi Parazine.  

That's exactly what I thought.  We had a Big Seven from early '38 fitted with an all-steel panel and I'd been under the impression that that was universal (with very late Rubies adopting the same panel towards the end of production).  This thread appears to contradict that.

To confuse matters further, I was contacted last week by someone who has an all-steel panel on a Mark 1 Ruby.

Oh, the joys of trying to make sense of Austin Seven authenticity!
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