Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 405 Threads: 18
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Hi Rob, it’s a job I’ve done on my car recently — worth getting new toggle arms and fulcrum pins. Importantly, look at wear in the slots where the toggles bear down on de-clutching — there is a choice of ways to restore these. The method I used was drilling and tapping 1/4 bsf and screwing in some cut down high tensile studs, flush with bottom of groove. Make sure you grind/file flush the protruding ends on the other side. Centre pop a few times to ensure location and fewer sleepless nights!
Other people have other methods — I’m not saying my way is best and I’m sure you will get some other good suggestions as this is a job most Austin Seven owners will have had to tackle at some point or other.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 497 Threads: 13
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Hi RPM
Your levers are completely worn out. Time to replace all the bits.
Your juddering could well come from the levers not all being the same height - they all need to be exactly the same.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 848 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I always use whitworth studs because the deeper thread is stronger. I have seen a BSF stud pushed out. Also when tapping the thread I don't go all the way up to full size, so that when I screw in my bolt or setscrew it is a tight fit. I only convert it to a stud by cutting off the head afterwards. I finally rivet the ends. I have never had one give up.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 198 Threads: 11
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Juddering in reverse can be down to excessive torque tube wear. The ball joint is adjustable to take up wear, but if that is at its fullest extent, it does not leave many options, replacement parts will all have worn to some degree or other and reclamation work, such as hard chroming, is specialist work. Finding someone is difficult...
I had a problem with juddering in reverse, had run out of adjustment on the ball joint, slipping the clutch was when it was at its worst, releasing this quickly meant that it would not judder, it is having the confidence that the car will not lurch uncontrollably and getting used to it.
I happened to replace my rear springs and the problem of repair has deferred - the new springs changed the orientation sufficiently to move the torque tube to a less worn part, the problem of the wear will still have to be addressed one day though!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
The ball end appears spherical still. When very worn the ring tightens befor the ball joint is reasonably free of play. It is common to file or turn the face of the ring back somewhat, but often already been done.. The problem is if adj for no play in normal position tend to wedge at extremes of travel, with risk of something breaking. I often wonder if anyone has devised a fix with nylon , leather or some such packing to accomodate worn ball and ring.
If the pinion and matching cw is just rusty with no fatigue pits I would use if nothing else available. Pinion on my car rusted after car stood unused outside for a few years, but functioned OK for thousands of miles using EP oil. Meshing is simplified if the slight wear step at thick end of teeth is carefully oilstoned away. (later pinions had shortend teeth to avoid this). .
