Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 14 Threads: 4
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Location: uk
Car type: Austin 7 1929
Hi
I have seen various comments on this site about the difficulty of removing hubs from A7 back axles and have now encountered these myself. I think ours is a Mk 2 Ruby light axle.
We have Morris hydraulic brakes fitted and I would like to replace the two cylinders in the rear hubs after doing all four on the front axle.
However, I can't quite get the old cylinders out with the axle hubs in place - not enough room - and I can't get the hubs out. I have loosened off the back plates but still not enough room.
Is there a trick to this or should I just refurbish the existing cylinders as best I can in situ? I realise that one option would be to get rid of the hydraulic system but I am not planning to do this although taking the car somewhere to have the hubs forcibly removed remains an option.
Cheers, Rod Shaw
Joined: Nov 2018 Posts: 215 Threads: 0
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Location: Norfolk
Car type: 1934 RP Saloon
Have you got a proper A7 hub puller?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,397 Threads: 25
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Location: North Yorkshire
Give me a call after lunch, Rod, and I'll try and talk you through how to do it.
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 848 Threads: 22
Reputation:
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I think you will find that doing your replacement without removing the hubs will not work. For this a proper Austin 7 puller is required. When using it make sure that the hub threads are in good order so that the puller goes home fully. If the threads are poor they must be cleaned up with a die which most people don't have or with a thread file which many of us do have. I emphasise that the puller should be properly fitted to the hub. If not you are in danger of making the hub threads worse and of damging the threads in the puller which will render it u/s. Seperate the outer half from the inner with care, and after this the big nut holding the bearing must be removed, allowing the inner hub and bearing to be removed, giving you the space you need for hydralic cyinder replacement.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 14 Threads: 4
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Location: uk
Car type: Austin 7 1929
Thanks to Rob, Steve and Bruce.
Looking closer at the threads on both sides after the comments, I think they are not in good condition. The new puller started to fail quite quickly on the one side that I have tried and I think the puller is now damaged. I may have damaged the thread on that hub a bit more also.
Probably not a good puller that I bought, noticing Bruce's point.
Rod
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 217 Threads: 19
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Not teaching granny to suck eggs, but you have split the outer hub and removed the hub nut inside haven't you?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 952 Threads: 38
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Peter, he is still trying to get the outer part off,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 809 Threads: 72
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Rod,
I have just done this job. I had a choice of three pullers and started with the brand new one - resulting in the thread stripping in the puller immediately. Neither of the other pullers would go on and I had to spend a great deal of time with a small file cleaning up the damaged threads before they would screw all the way home. Eventually both hubs came off undamaged.
In desperation I have heard of people welding the puller to the hub, then cutting through the welds after removal.
Peter.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
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Location: Auckland, NZ
One disadavtgae of diligent lapping and regular tightening is that can be very difficult to separate. Someone here some time ago welded on a metal ring to form a shoulder for a basic or home msde puller. As used for many Fords. (pullers left in place sometimes come off forcefully. Keep away from the tissue panels of any modern.)
