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Newbie
#1
Hi all.
Just thought I'd say hello. I'm new to Austin Sevens. Just bought an Ulster replica. Only got it yesterday. Paid way to much but it was love at first sight. Lots to learn. So far so good!
Cheers
Rich
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#2
Welcome to the land of sevens, great fun and all consuming. What area are you   . Be sure to join your local club.
I am always interested in any information about Rosengart details or current owners.
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#3
Wink 
Photos, please and welcome. I still feel like a newbie and I've had my car for 35 years!

I might change my username to Jon Snow, cos I know nothing. Big Grin

[Image: jon-snow.jpg]
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#4
Thanks for the welcome. I'll post some photos when I've had a chance to take some. In the meantime a quick question that must have been asked hundreds of time so feel free to refer me to an earlier post; the car has no water temp gauge, so I was thinking of sticking a calormeter on top of the radiator. They look nice but do they work? Good idea or unnecessary?
Cheers
Rich
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#5
Rich,
Calormeters work fine, but if you park up,make sure you take it off and put it somewhere out of view. Reckless, I’m sure that’s not you in the photo unless you have bought a new syrup.
Cheers,
Dave.
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#6
(07-11-2017, 05:09 PM)wooster Wrote: Thanks for the welcome. I'll post some photos when I've had a chance to take some. In the meantime a quick question that must have been asked hundreds of time so feel free to refer me to an earlier post; the car has no water temp gauge, so I was thinking of sticking a calormeter on top of the radiator. They look nice but do they work? Good idea or unnecessary?
Cheers
Rich

Yes, they work.
I have one on one car, not on the other.   The main value is the attention it attracts from passers-by, and a conversation starts.

If the car is getting over- hot, water issues from the radiator cap and hits you in the face, so I know to slow down a bit.

Simon

Simon
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#7
If you buy a colormeter, do check it does work throughout its entire range. I've seen a lot that only seem to have the ability to get to 'Normal' and no further. I guess something to do with having spent 80 years registering that and maybe the mechanism seizes after that point. It's easy enough to do with a bowl of boiling water...
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#8
(08-11-2017, 10:21 AM)Slack Alice Wrote:
(07-11-2017, 05:09 PM)wooster Wrote: Thanks for the welcome. I'll post some photos when I've had a chance to take some. In the meantime a quick question that must have been asked hundreds of time so feel free to refer me to an earlier post; the car has no water temp gauge, so I was thinking of sticking a calormeter on top of the radiator. They look nice but do they work? Good idea or unnecessary?
Cheers
Rich

Yes, they work.
I have one on one car, not on the other.   The main value is the attention it attracts from passers-by, and a conversation starts.

If the car is getting over- hot, water issues from the radiator cap and hits you in the face, so I know to slow down a bit.6

Simon

Simon

I don't want to hijack the post, but I've been pondering the tendency Simon mentions above, as I'd like to put actual coolant in my rad not just plain water. Is it actually possible to seal an A7 rad cap?
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#9
If coolant/water is splashing out of the radiator cap then first of all check the coolant level - many tend to put too much in. The level on an RP type rad should not be any higher than the bottom of the curved section viewable through the cap. Secondly the overflow pipe should be clear. If both these are OK then there's no reason why anti-freeze mixture coolant cannot be used and the cap/rad shell interface sealed with a bit of clear silicone.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a calorimeter. It's just something else to worry about. If your cooling system is in good order then overheating shouldn't really be a problem.
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#10
(08-11-2017, 12:59 PM)Reckless Rat Wrote: If coolant/water is splashing out of the radiator cap then first of all check the coolant level - many tend to put too much in. The level on an RP type rad should not be any higher than the bottom of the curved section viewable through the cap. Secondly the overflow pipe should be clear. If both these are OK then there's no reason why anti-freeze mixture coolant cannot be used and the cap/rad shell interface sealed with a bit of clear silicone.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a calorimeter. It's just something else to worry about. If your cooling system is in good order then overheating shouldn't really be a problem.

I was afraid someone would say that! My approach up to now has always been to put in as much (water) as possible & let it self-level. Post-rebuild my cooling system should be in much better shape, but in the Alps it was always a question of when we boil rather than 'if'. Under these circs by the way I wouldn't trust my Wilmot Breeden calorimeter nearly as far as I could throw it!
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