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getting brake lining rivets 'square on'
#1
I am about to relieve a tool to enable it to be square to the lining for punching.

Is it reasonable to consider relieving the edge of the shoe casting a few mm, so the tool does not become too weak in being cut away to pass the casting?

Also, do people use washers between the rivet and the reverse of the lining material. I have seen it in some examples.
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#2
Hi Jon, I have just had 8 shoes relined  by saftek  sent off the shoes, they were shotblasted, relined with some nice soft woven material and posted back for £105 all in which I consider to be good value. Turn round was less than a week.They look like new!
Unless you already have the linings I wouldn't bother doing them yourself.
I will post up a picture shortly

       
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#3
As you might surmise, I have the linings...!
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#4
Jon it might be helpful to post a photo, I can't quite grasp what you have in mind. I wouldn't take any metal off the shoe and it should not be necessary to do so.
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#5
no overhead access.. other threads or sites have advised preparing a tool by cutting away the side to get the angle better. but removing a tad from the overhead would also help...

   
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#6
Hi Jon

I tried to post a picture of mine but have given up with the process, it still didn't want it after I had turned it into a "gif", whatever that is.

Mine is a half inch bar ground out past half way to clear the  bump in the shoe, seems to work ok.

Simon
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#7
I have modified the punch I use for riveting brake lines by grinding a groove into it. Now it clears the web on the shoe and goes square onto the rivet. This works well and as very little force is needed rivet the copper there is no strength issue.
I would not take any metal of the web on the shoe. I have in the past had a shoe snap so would not want to weaken it.
In addition I glue the lining to the shoe with a very thin smear of araldite. The shoe and lining are clamped into a brake drum overnight with some of the old rivets in place to position the lining on the shoe. This is simply to make riveting easier because it is difficult to hold the shoe, lining, punch and hammer with only 2 hands. Aradite alone is not up to the job.
Jim
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#8
That Araldite/brake drum/clamp setup is a really good idea - I willl definitely try that next time I reline my brakes.
Rick

In deepest Norfolk
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#9
(09-12-2019, 12:19 PM)JonE Wrote: no overhead access.. other threads or sites have advised preparing a tool by cutting away the side to get the angle better. but removing a tad from the overhead would also help...

Jon,

you will need to remove some material from your punch so that it is able to come down straight onto the rivet - mark where it touches and grind away until it sits straight.

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#10

.jpg   2019-12-09_01-26-17.jpg (Size: 163.07 KB / Downloads: 273)
.jpg   2019-12-09_01-23-14.jpg (Size: 158.48 KB / Downloads: 272)   Here you go Jon, grind the snap away as Ruairidh suggested. Then you'll end up with a proper job.
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