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replacing oil screen gauze
I've just found out that the brass oil gauze burns quite nicely with a blowtorch. But conversely, the metal frame to be soldered to is large enough to need quite a bit of heat.
What is the best way of repairing a little hole.... and/or replacing an entire new gauze i.e. is there an adhesive which is better than using solder?
Have you tried using a copper soldering iron (the type you heat with a blowtorch) they are easier to control where the heat goes when trying to solder such different materials.
To replace the gauze, first tin the frame with soft solder at the points where you want to solder the gauze. You'll then find you need a very small amount of heat from your torch to solder the gauze to the frame at those points. I could take a photo of one I did a couple of weeks ago but it's now hidden inside an engine.

PS: When you say 'blowtorch' trust you mean small soldering torch and not something made for plumbing work!
thanks all - I've been using a kitchen flambe torch, but may see if I can find a copper soldering iron...
I put a new gauze (from Jamie) in mine back in the summer using one of those little Dremel soldering torches.
I admit I did not find it easy at all and succeeded by sheer perseverance. Make sure it is as clean as can be before starting is the best advice I can offer. Take heart from the fact that it doesn't do a lot.
hi jonE,

this is why the suppliers, supply the frame seperate from the gause.

its a crapy job, a little time consuming. that you dont get paid for.

and when soldering, you are usually standing over a thin streaming line of chemical smoke.

i usuad to do around 5 at a time to put on the stall during the summer, but the flux stains and rusts the steel. so they look used after a week. and nobady wants to pay.

i done one last week ONLY to complete a £1,500 order, and it reminded me how horrible this job is. UNLESS you are doing it for yourself.

I wanted to solder the core plugs top and bottom on some semi-girling king pins and was recommended this stuff, which worked like a charm.

Bakers No.3 Soldering Fluid
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It now just makes me wonder whether there is some sort of modern heat-resistant adhesive that could do a similar job, 90 years on...
I took one engine apart where a past owner had glued the gauze on with Silicone, I would not recommend that though it was a horrible mess! Soldering is not hard once you get the technique right, everything must be spotless, wire wool and a stainless brush are good for cleaning, heat the frame rather than the gauze, use a good flux but wash it off and neutralise the acid otherwise the steel will rust as Tony has found out!
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Hi Ian,

It's amazing what people try.

As you know silicon is either brave or stupid?

Apart from the mess, you don't want to much loose in the oil.

I know many people rap the brass round the steel plate  loose, and trap it with the 10 bolts, which sounds fine. But I can only imagine people making a mess of the gauze drilling 10 holes in loose gauze?


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