6V wiring...

[Ferg3]

My '33 A7 came without turn indicators, so for safety's sake on these South-East roads, I am fitting a 6V set from Vehicle Wiring Products (very good kit).  Only issue is that it has cabling for a motorcycle, so I need some more.  I know a 6V system should have beefier wiring.  Recommendations?  Also, where to tap into on the ignition circuit?

[David Stepney]

I used ordinary cable from Halfords. Its plenty big enough for flashing indicators. I took my feed from the 'A' terminal on the fuse box, but this means that the indicators are independent of the ignition switch. If you want them only to work when the ignition is on, I suggest you take you feed from the feed side of the fuel gauge.

[Chris KC]

The chunkier the wire the better, and wherever an earth is called for run a cable back to the battery rather than earthing through the bodywork.

[Bill Dixon]

Re flashing indicators, I would not feed the flashers through the 80/90 year old ignition switch but feed from the "A" terminal. Also if not already fitted fit a battery isolating switch,when the car is left this switch can be turned off.
Hope this helps.

[Paul Nott]

Purchased all my wiring including period like fabric covered wire from AES  of Tenbury Wells.
All good quality and a comprehensive choice.

[Stuart Giles]

A standard indicator bulb is 21W. In a 6V system the current will be 3.5A per bulb, so 7A per side for the front and rear.  Flexible cables are usually sold as something like 32/02 being 32 strands of 0.2 copper wire, this example would be amount to nominal 1sq mm cable which would be generous for your indicators. I would fit a fuse but otherwise wire them directly; i.e. not via the ignition as otherwise using a hazard light facility is restricted.

[Ferg3]

Thanks, everyone! Permit me to ask a daft question? I would like to fit a battery cutout switch, although nestling next to my positive earth 6V battery, I just found PO's battery terminal spanner! But tell me, fit switch to Earth or Feed side? The Negative feed has a VERY meaty cable, so fitting on the earth side would be easier. Bad practice?

[Stuart Giles]

Usual practice is to fit a master switch on the earth side; thinking behind this being that a short to earth isn't going to lead to an expensive firework display in the way that it would on the "live" side

["Slack Alice" Simon]

The cables should be equal, there is no point in one being thicker that the other, the electricity goes through both to make the circuit.

"Meaty" cables are good in a 6 volt system.   Good practice would be to make both cables the same, one to the starter switch, and the other to a starter bolt or a gearbox bell housing bolt, then worry about a switch.

I disconnect a terminal, I didn't want to drill holes, which means the switch would be on a terminal, under the seat, and if you are going to look under the seat, you may as well take a terminal off.

[John Mason]

There are reasonable priced isolation switches on E-Bay. The one I have requires no drilling or fixing at all. It fastens directly onto the battery terminal with a clamp screw (Just as a normal battery terminal) and the battery terminal fits to the other end of the switch. It is the same size and shape as a battery terminal again with a simple clamp screw. There is a simple finger screw with large plastic top between the two terminals enabling you to switch the power on and off.

John Mason