Flywheel torque settinmg

[SneezerUSA]

Can someone advise me of the correct torque setting for the bolt that attaches the flywheel to the crankshaft of a 1930 Austin? Any help would be appreciated. Arnie

[AustinWood]

I don't think torque settings were ever defined for the Austin engine. I just do it up as tight as I can with a long bar.

[John Mason]

Arnie, Some people use thread lock on this nut and do away with the locking washer.

John Mason

[Chris KC]

Arnie, the flywheel is normally secured with a NUT. If you have a bolt then stop & think as it is a non-standard arrangement.

I'm not aware of any published torque for this joint, but it must be TIGHT. Most of us will use a long spanner or slip a bar over for extra leverage and heave as hard as we can. Lock the flywheel against the casing with a bar or bolt while you do this.

[Terrytuned]

Hi Arnie never actually checked the torque figure I use a 1/2"drive air wrench 150ft lb rated, so torque tightened would be 130 to 150 max.
Don't use a lock washer they are to soft, I smear the flywheel taper with nut lock tighten the flywheel with air wrench until the nut stops moving then remove nut coat threads with locktite and retighten again, never had a problem using this method. Terry.

[AustinWood]

I don't think the flywheel nut is ever a problem if it's tightened adequately so long as the taper is in good condition. If the taper has been reground excessively the flywheel pulls up against the rear main bearing instead of the taper. If that happens it will come loose in use.

[David Stepney]

I think I would endorse Terrytuned's method of attaching the flywheel and nut. I think the only thing that I would disagree with him about is the use (or otherwise) of the lockwasher. I always fit a new one.

The technique that I use is to apply Loctite 222 to the taper and the thread and tighten the nut as much as my 16 stone grandson in law can do it up with a breaker bar and 3 foot scaffold pole. (i.e bloody tight!) Although mine is a touring engine in standard trim, I haven't had the flywheel come loose yet.

It is worth trial fitting the flywheel to the crank first to make sure there is clearance between the rear main and the flywheel boss. If you have to use the flywheel puller to get it off again, then the chances are that the flywheel is gripping the taper.

[Alan]

I use 200ftlbs, more than that on race engines. However, as has been mentioned, if the taper isn’t fitting correctly to start with extra torque isn’t the answer.

[SneezerUSA]

I am overwhelmed all the information received by the group in the less than a 24 hour period. I can now proceed  forward with installation of the flywheel.  If I run into any problems I will be back.  Thanks for the help. Arnie

[David Witton]

May I suggest using a bolt or bar to lock the flywheel against the crankcase risks breaking the latter.
Safer to stop the crank turning with a block of wood within the case.