Advice on Clutch change

[mk1-mark]

Hi,

New to A 7 Ownership & my son & I have just started our first bit of maintenance for next year.  The clutch was a bit slippery after Adam's last outing to Harewood at the end of last season, so first on the list is the clutch.  We got the gearbox off last night, but are struggling to understand the instructions in the big red Austin 7 workshop manual opn how to remove & refit the clutch / flywheel assembly.

I would be very grateful for any tips that anyone could give.

Also, tips on riveting the clutch material onto the plate would be appreciated.  Never having done this before.

Thanking you in anticipation.



Mark F

[Alan]

First of all, before anything else, mark the position of all the bits so you can put them back in the same place as they were. Your engine has the crank and flywheel balanced when it was assembled and it would be a pity to lose that ( don’t ask how I know).
The flywheel cover plate is fastened in place by six 1/4in screws. If you undo these you will be able to lift away the cover plate, pressure plate and driven plate. I think you’ll find the clutch is the early type with the linings on the pressure plate and the flywheel. (The later type has the linings on the driven plate- 2 different types so be careful if it’s these). Assuming it is the early type you need to remove the flywheel to replace the lining. The clutch linings come complete with copper rivers and are easy enough to fit, but it might be easier to remove the flywheel with the engine out of the car.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

It is very unusual for A7 linings to wear out - can you post a photo of them?

Sometimes they glaze and this causes slip, usually it can be fixed without the need to replace.

[AllAlloyCup]

The riveting is easy with two persons, one to hold
the early type flywheel on an anvil stud matching the head of the rivet.

Grind a steel or brass rod with a shaped end to fit into
The open rivet end to splay it. When opened up a bit use
the rounded end of a small ball pein hammer to spread the rivet more

Then use the other end of the hammer to flatten the rivet.
Repeat this procedure on the pressure plate.

I’m about to check the setting of the clutch levers
But this can only be done with the flywheel fitted to the crank.

Regards

Bill G

[mk1-mark]

Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how I get on.

M

[Steve Jones]

Whilst riveting of the linings is easy, Mark, given your location I'd suggest simply taking the components to Saftek at Cleckheaton and have it done for you. https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-f...lications/

They'll advise on lining materials and have done many, many Austin Sevens. I gave up re-lining my own clutches and brake shoes years ago, it's not worth the bother given they do it professionally at a cost similar to doing it myself.

Steve

[jansens]

One other thing that's not immediately obvious sometimes when reassembling is that the clutch plate has a blind spline on the shaft that goes into the first motion shaft on the gearbox. When reattaching the gearbox you have to make sure this is aligned or the spline will never slide home and you'll never get the gearbox back on!

Simon

[Chris Garner]

Mark,
I've sent you a PM
Chris

[dickie65]

Hi,
I have a couple of suggestions.
If you drive the car hard racing starts etc. it is worth fitting a half set of double clutch springs.
It increases clamp pressure but is still OK for road use.
The other thing I do when changing the linings is to put some gasket goo on all the rivets where they pass through the flywheel.
This will prevent oil going through the rivet holes as it gets spun out of the rear main bearing and the onto the clutch linings.
( I discovered this by having to take the engine out not long after new linings had been fitted, oil had just started to soak the lining around the rivets )
I now use a lip seal on the crank rear main as well, this needs to have a speedy seal fitted to the flywheel to stop the new seal being torn up.

[Zetomagneto]

Hi,
I have a couple of suggestions.
If you drive the car hard racing starts etc. it is worth fitting a half set of double clutch springs.
It increases clamp pressure but is still OK for road use.
The other thing I do when changing the linings is to put some gasket goo on all the rivets where they pass through the flywheel.
This will prevent oil going through the rivet holes as it gets spun out of the rear main bearing and the onto the clutch linings.
( I discovered this by having to take the engine out not long after new linings had been fitted, oil had just started to soak the lining around the rivets )
I now use a lip seal on the crank rear main as well, this needs to have a speedy seal fitted to the flywheel to stop the new seal being torn up.

Dickie, you mean a speedi sleeve available from most bearing specialist

---

The riveting is easy with two persons, one to hold
the early type flywheel on an anvil stud matching the head of the rivet.

Grind a steel or brass rod with a shaped end to fit into
The open rivet end to splay it. When opened up a bit use
the rounded end of a small ball pein hammer to spread the rivet more

Then use the other end of the hammer to flatten the rivet.
Repeat this procedure on the pressure plate.

I’m about to check the setting of the clutch levers
But this can only be done with the flywheel fitted to the crank.

Regards

Bill G

Bill, there is a proper set which nicely rolls the rivet shank, you don’t want to start off by splitting the rivet, it reduces it’s clamping ability and looks unsightly