I run 'Nippy' aluminium sumps on both my Nippy and Ulster rep.
The engine won't go in (my cars) with the sump on - I drop it in without and then add the sump in situ. Which is a bit of a fiddle but do-able.
If I may throw in my tuppence worth, a 6-pint alloy sump is nice on a long run (basically storing spare oil in the pan rather than carrying it in the boot). Also imparts considerable stiffness to the crankcase I think.
It does take a mighty long time to warm up though. I recently measured oil temp over an hour and a half run, pootling down country lanes in Autumnal weather; it took over an hour to peak and then only at 64 C. You want to be really careful if you are the 'flying start' type. I haven't yet measured it under 'sportier' driving conditions (running in at present). It's widely held - on internet 'fora' (I read Latin too, and ancient Greek to boot) at least - that oil temp should be at least 90 - 100C in order to 'burn off' water, otherwise in conjunction with other combustion by-products it forms acid in your sump. I'm not 100% convinced about that but for sure the vast majority of engine wear / damage occurs with cold oil at start up.
The engine won't go in (my cars) with the sump on - I drop it in without and then add the sump in situ. Which is a bit of a fiddle but do-able.
(23-10-2018, 07:01 PM)Charles Levien Wrote:(23-10-2018, 05:31 PM)Derek Sheldon Wrote: Does fitting a deep finned aluminium sump impede the fitting of a Opal engine ( is it inclined to catch up whilst fitting the engine) .
Can engine and gearbox be fitted in one piece with deep sump attached.
Thanks for your support.
Derek, why do do you want a deep sump on your Opal?
Charles
If I may throw in my tuppence worth, a 6-pint alloy sump is nice on a long run (basically storing spare oil in the pan rather than carrying it in the boot). Also imparts considerable stiffness to the crankcase I think.
It does take a mighty long time to warm up though. I recently measured oil temp over an hour and a half run, pootling down country lanes in Autumnal weather; it took over an hour to peak and then only at 64 C. You want to be really careful if you are the 'flying start' type. I haven't yet measured it under 'sportier' driving conditions (running in at present). It's widely held - on internet 'fora' (I read Latin too, and ancient Greek to boot) at least - that oil temp should be at least 90 - 100C in order to 'burn off' water, otherwise in conjunction with other combustion by-products it forms acid in your sump. I'm not 100% convinced about that but for sure the vast majority of engine wear / damage occurs with cold oil at start up.