Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
Reputation:
16
Car type:
re the other issue of the twin damper, I don't think the other thread successfully addressed whether anyone had found that the twin was actually an improvement over JUST securing the damper to the N/S axle beam as per Rick's post.... can anyone report?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,382 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
29-04-2020, 08:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-04-2020, 08:16 PM by Reckless Rat.)
I have used the fixed damper arm modification on my RP for several years and lots of miles without any problems. There was an immediate improvement to stability, and there is still no apparent degradation of the mounting bolt. Mine is mounted using the offside bolt on the axle beam but I don't think it actually matters which. The damping action is fine.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,332 Threads: 34
Reputation:
30
Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
29-04-2020, 08:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-04-2020, 08:17 PM by Alan.)
I think I said it in the original thread. The standard system is twice as stiff in bump as it is in roll. That’s not where you want to be. The way round it is a split system, but the effectiveness improves with the distance apart of the two pairs of discs. So, mounting shortened arms to the original damper mounting points doesn’t achieve all that much. What you need to do is use standard damper arms and space them so the ends mount to the radius arm ends. Then you will see a difference. The immobilised link is a different thing entirely. Essential, but nothing to do with dampers.
Alan Fairless
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
Any marked stiffness in steering, as a tight kingpin, causes wander. Many maintain nil or very little play in steering promotes wander (with play the geometric errors are absorbed much of the time). I fitted hydraulic sas to front of my car but do not recall much difference although it did greatly reduce pitching. If all OK rather than resort to the locking of one front shackle, try the rubber block fillers at spring ends. not much sen now, but many were keen advocates.
Joined: Jul 2019 Posts: 187 Threads: 42
Reputation:
5
Location: North Wales UK
Car type: Austin 7 RN 1931
30-04-2020, 10:36 AM
(This post was last modified: 30-04-2020, 10:39 AM by Barry Townsend.)
Avon 350/19 on the front, Sidecar tyres i think
Longstone on the rear,
I reckon the rear went up by about 2 inches and the car has a 'normal' sit on the road now, nice and level
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
Reputation:
7
Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
First thing I'd do is swap them front to back and see what occurs.
Joined: Jul 2019 Posts: 187 Threads: 42
Reputation:
5
Location: North Wales UK
Car type: Austin 7 RN 1931
30-04-2020, 11:01 AM
(This post was last modified: 30-04-2020, 11:11 AM by Barry Townsend.)
Thanks, I'll give it a whirl
Thanks David, I'm going to try swapping the Avons on the front with the Longstones on the rear first and the experiment with tyre pressures after. The temptation is to do too many alterations at once and lose sight of the results.
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 978 Threads: 6
Reputation:
12
Location: Scottish Borders
When I bought my current fabric saloon it have virtually no play in the steering box. It was lively. I adjusted the box to make sure there was no stiffness and just a little play. That improved things.
On the road it is important not to hold the wheel too tightly, it needs to be able to kick.
Finally I fitted the rubber blocks at the ends of the front springs, as mentioned by Bob. This stops the tendancy the Seven has to swoop from side to side as the axle moves relative to the front spring.
The car now steers very well indeed, even over the roughest surfaces.
Jim
Joined: Apr 2020 Posts: 2 Threads: 0
Reputation:
0
Location: Penryn, Cornwall
Car type: 1933 RP (OY)
From a new contributor - i've run Longstone 3.50 x 19 on my RP for 8/9 years now and have always used 30 psi with no problems of wander etc. When originally fitting them I happened to buy a classic car mag which had an advertising insert from Longstones which listed pressures for various vehicles. A7 30psi front/back. Just fitted another set, best tyres i've used.
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 1,498 Threads: 54
Reputation:
8
Perhaps I should explain, when I bought the Longstone tyres I was advised to use 30 psi or a bit more. With this pressure driving a Seven was no longer enjoyable I'd no idea where it would go. I switched the wheels and tyres between two cars Longstone V Avon and the problem moved with the tyres. So I phoned up Longstones to order a set of Avons, why don't you try our tyres I was asked. I replied I have a set banished to workshop use only and explained the problem. I was asked what pressure I used and when I replied 30 psi as advised by Longstones their response was at that pressure it will be all over the road try 24 psi do you still want the Avons? Yes please I replied and tell your colleague to advise the correct pressure. So I went down to the garage dug the Lonstones out dropped them to 24 psi and fitted them to a car, driving a Seven was enjoyable.