RP Rear brake cables

[Roger]

When  I rebuilt my RP I used marine grade stainless steel cable and fittings to enable the rear brakes to be easily adjustable.  I originally manufactured a new brake lever to enable me to use a clevis and pin that was easily available from a marine supplier and this also allowed easy adjustment of the brakes by rotating the turnbuckle whilst still all connected as in photo 2.
 I have now reassessed my original design and gone back to utilising a genuine Austin seven brake lever.
 Doing this puts the cable very close to the rear suspension springs, do you think this is acceptable or is there likely to be a problem with the cable and springs contacting each other. The original cable route must have had the same problem.
 I have looked on the old forum and seen some photographs of a similar idea to mine but there was no mention of any problem with the proximity of the cable and suspension springs. 
 The configuration I have now makes it far more difficult to adjust the cable.
Do you think I should keep the A7 levers or is my method using my lever ok, this does move the cable further from the springs?

   
   
   

Please ignore the missing nuts etc.

Roger

[Chris KC]

I'm not sure what problem you foresee Roger - there shouldn't be any significant lateral movement in either springs or cable so they can safely run alongside each other.

[Roger]

I'm not sure what problem you foresee Roger - there shouldn't be any significant lateral movement in either springs or cable so they can safely run alongside each other.

Chris,

They are actually in contact where the threaded portion is. (Third leaf up).
Also I would like  some comments on my home made prototype is it an acceptable method to use, it will make adjustments much easier.

Roger

[Chris KC]

Sorry, couldn't see that on tiny screen!
I would suggest actual contact is not good.
Are you familiar with the add-on cable adjusters such as the Seven Workshop supply? (BR0614) They are simple to use and fairly effective, and can be used at more or less any handy point on the cable.

[dickie65]

Hi,

Have you checked the cable guides on the rear cross member ?
If I am correct the cables pass over the cross member through a brass bush ( Nut and bolt with hole for the cable )
The Seven Workshop has picture of them.
I use a galvanised rigging screw at the end of the cross tube on the drivers side rear brake cable.

[Hentzant]

Roger I have just replaced my rear cable and noticed that it was quite close to the rear spring when the car was jacked up under the rear axle .When the car is resting on its wheels the spring are flexed and there is more clearance for the cable .The larger diameter of the modified design might be an issue.

[Roger]

Roger I have just replaced my rear cable and noticed that it was quite close to the rear spring when the car was jacked up under the rear axle .When the car is resting on its wheels the spring are flexed and there is more clearance for the cable .The larger diameter of the modified design might be an issue.

This is my original idea which was well clear of the spring and left the adjustment at the front.
I was just concerned that it might not be the best way of providing fine adjustment to the brakes.
I was trying to avoid using the type that clamp to the cable.

   

Roger

[Ian Williams]

Reverse the Austin lever so that the ball faces the backplate, or use your homemade lever, I have fitted turnbuckles for adjustment at the cross shaft end of the cable quite successfully.

[Roger]

Hi,

Have you checked the cable guides on the rear cross member ?
If I am correct the cables pass over the cross member through a brass bush ( Nut and bolt with hole for the cable )
The Seven Workshop has picture of them.
I use a galvanised rigging screw at the end of the cross tube on the drivers side rear brake cable.

This is my guide made from an enots air fitting, it works well.
   
My adjuster is stainless yacht rigging, expensive perhaps but luckily I had a contact in a local chandlers.

   

[Roger]

Reverse the Austin lever so that the ball faces the backplate, or use your homemade lever, I have fitted turnbuckles for adjustment at the cross shaft end of the cable quite successfully.

Thank you Ian, I had not thought of reversing the A7 levers, I thought it would affect the angle of the lever, but the cotter must do that if put in back to front.

Roger