14-12-2022, 11:07 AM
(This post was last modified: 14-12-2022, 04:08 PM by Reckless Rat.)
Vancevr, A good rule is that if you're not sure what you're doing then it's best left alone. There is no need to start dismantling the gearbox if there is no good reason. Replacing the release bearing (like for like) is not a difficult task. However, if you get the engine/gearbox out and up onto a bench, then it's a good time to check and re-adjust the tappets, and to generally have a tighten up all round (don't go crazy with the wrenches)
If your engine/gearbox are relatively oil tight then you're good. A completely oil-tight A7 engine is achieveable, but the old saying goes that if it's not leaking it's because there's no oil in it...
Having the engine on the bench you could also remove the sump (oil-pan) and clean the gauze filter, if that has not been done recently. Remember to replace the bolts in their repective places (particularly the one directly below the flywheel, and use a silicone gasket if you have one. DON'T overtighten the studs or you could strip a thread, as that will open a can of worms. You've been warned!
When replacing the gearbox it's a good idea to rotate the crankshaft so the "blind spline" is at the top, and do the same with the gearbox 1st motion shaft. The two should then marry up easily. Put the gearbox in gear beforehand and you can then rotate the 1st Motion shaft by turning the output flange.
Be careful and good luck.
PS
Have you got a copy of "The Austin Seven Manual" by Doug Woodrow? If not, it might be an ideal Christmas present to yourself.
![[Image: 21dXuawYidL._BO1,204,203,200_.jpg]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/21dXuawYidL._BO1,204,203,200_.jpg)
If your engine/gearbox are relatively oil tight then you're good. A completely oil-tight A7 engine is achieveable, but the old saying goes that if it's not leaking it's because there's no oil in it...
Having the engine on the bench you could also remove the sump (oil-pan) and clean the gauze filter, if that has not been done recently. Remember to replace the bolts in their repective places (particularly the one directly below the flywheel, and use a silicone gasket if you have one. DON'T overtighten the studs or you could strip a thread, as that will open a can of worms. You've been warned!
When replacing the gearbox it's a good idea to rotate the crankshaft so the "blind spline" is at the top, and do the same with the gearbox 1st motion shaft. The two should then marry up easily. Put the gearbox in gear beforehand and you can then rotate the 1st Motion shaft by turning the output flange.
Be careful and good luck.
PS
Have you got a copy of "The Austin Seven Manual" by Doug Woodrow? If not, it might be an ideal Christmas present to yourself.