06-07-2022, 11:58 PM
Try this, Ray -from the Lucas Training Notes (Fig 71 on):
Apologies for the quality, I no longer have free access to a decent scanner.
CB = coil primary terminal connected to coil
SW = coil primary terminal connected to ignition switch
I haven't edited because some cars have been changed from (+) ve to (-) grounding.
The Wilkson voltmeter in the volt-ammeter sets which was the weapon of choice for this work years ago was usually scaled 0-40 volts, but if you're using a modern DMM 0-20v is fine.
Fig 74 "Volts at CB terminal...." this reading shouldn't exceed 0.2v so you'd want to set your DMM to 0-2v for that test
From what information you have given you may have a short-circuited coil primary winding, or possible excessive points resistance (causing heating due to the voltage drop), but both scenarios are seemingly unrelated to a recent battery charge?!
Unless the car has been standing unused for a while in which case excessive points resistance would be my first check (Fig74)
Good luck!
AGW
Apologies for the quality, I no longer have free access to a decent scanner.
CB = coil primary terminal connected to coil
SW = coil primary terminal connected to ignition switch
I haven't edited because some cars have been changed from (+) ve to (-) grounding.
The Wilkson voltmeter in the volt-ammeter sets which was the weapon of choice for this work years ago was usually scaled 0-40 volts, but if you're using a modern DMM 0-20v is fine.
Fig 74 "Volts at CB terminal...." this reading shouldn't exceed 0.2v so you'd want to set your DMM to 0-2v for that test
From what information you have given you may have a short-circuited coil primary winding, or possible excessive points resistance (causing heating due to the voltage drop), but both scenarios are seemingly unrelated to a recent battery charge?!
Unless the car has been standing unused for a while in which case excessive points resistance would be my first check (Fig74)
Good luck!
AGW