21-08-2019, 05:28 AM
Steve you *really* want to do this side water manifold now, while the engine is out (and preferably when the block is off the engine for easy handling) as the job is a monumental pain in the A when the engine is in the car and something goes snap....
The casting of the block leaves very narrow water passages between the individual cylinders which can be seen through that oval opening in the side of the block, hence the reference to using a hacksaw to prod and rod them open. along with a piece of wire to scratch to the front & rear of that opening. I generally do this when the block is bone dry & then blast the scratchings out with compressed air - you will be amazed what lurks in corners. The more 'stuff & scale' you can get out, the better the cooling will be.
The leftover stuff can be removed using the old stocking trick - use the cut-off toe of a ladies stocking (how you get her to relinquish said stockings is up to you.....). You need about 3/4 the length of the top hose. Insert the stocking up the top hose with a screwdriver handle to make it easy, wrap the open end around the base of the top hose & trap under the clamp. Then drive, but keep an eye on the engine and the slightest inkling of anything, shut down and pull the stocking out - it acts as a micro-fine filter and picks up all the loose stuff you didn't get out the first time & more importantly, it picks up stuff that comes loose with a bit of heat when running the motor as well and anything small enough to circulate through the radiator tubes. Caution: - Don't stick the stocking into the top of the top hose, the flow causes it to go into the header tank where it snags on the sharp edges of the fins... guess how I know this.
Empty the crud out the stocking & re-fit until it comes out clean - job done
Aye
Greig
The casting of the block leaves very narrow water passages between the individual cylinders which can be seen through that oval opening in the side of the block, hence the reference to using a hacksaw to prod and rod them open. along with a piece of wire to scratch to the front & rear of that opening. I generally do this when the block is bone dry & then blast the scratchings out with compressed air - you will be amazed what lurks in corners. The more 'stuff & scale' you can get out, the better the cooling will be.
The leftover stuff can be removed using the old stocking trick - use the cut-off toe of a ladies stocking (how you get her to relinquish said stockings is up to you.....). You need about 3/4 the length of the top hose. Insert the stocking up the top hose with a screwdriver handle to make it easy, wrap the open end around the base of the top hose & trap under the clamp. Then drive, but keep an eye on the engine and the slightest inkling of anything, shut down and pull the stocking out - it acts as a micro-fine filter and picks up all the loose stuff you didn't get out the first time & more importantly, it picks up stuff that comes loose with a bit of heat when running the motor as well and anything small enough to circulate through the radiator tubes. Caution: - Don't stick the stocking into the top of the top hose, the flow causes it to go into the header tank where it snags on the sharp edges of the fins... guess how I know this.
Empty the crud out the stocking & re-fit until it comes out clean - job done
Aye
Greig