13-11-2018, 09:37 AM
As said, you just need to lap until you get a good contact area, it's not usually practical to remove every pit from the hub. One thing to watch for is that a step often forms in the small end of the hub taper after lapping. If this is left in place it will stop the hub pulling up onto the halfshaft taper when the nut is tightened. I file the step off leaving a very short parallel section at the outer end of the hub.
You can usually get an idea of whether the sunwheel gear at the end of the halfshaft is going to bind on the inside of the diff if you do a loose dry assembly and try to pull the hub outer away from the inner when its assembled on the axle case, if you can't, you just need to grind back the halfshaft inner edge of the sunwheel gear, these gears are really generously sized for the job they have to do, and losing a 1/16" of width hasn't caused any issues when I've done this. This grinding really needs to be done with a toolpost grinder in a lathe, or in a proper grinding machine.
You can usually get an idea of whether the sunwheel gear at the end of the halfshaft is going to bind on the inside of the diff if you do a loose dry assembly and try to pull the hub outer away from the inner when its assembled on the axle case, if you can't, you just need to grind back the halfshaft inner edge of the sunwheel gear, these gears are really generously sized for the job they have to do, and losing a 1/16" of width hasn't caused any issues when I've done this. This grinding really needs to be done with a toolpost grinder in a lathe, or in a proper grinding machine.