13-12-2022, 02:35 PM
Just to clarify, in order to facilitate the engine/gearbox removal I have modified both front and rear engine mounts, and the floor pan. The engine mounts (rear) are through bolts with 'D' shaped washers welded on at the head end. They are inserted from below and secured by a nyloc nut on top. This allow their removal from the top only as the 'D' prevents them from turning. This is easier with the starter motor removed (later crankcases).
The front engine mounts work the other way. The castellated nuts are wound right down to the bottom of their threads so that they can then be removed from the threaded portion in the chassis rail. Being unable to "lock" them in position means that I have to occasionally recheck them for tightness after re-fitting but it does make removal (and refitting)of the unit easier if they're taken out. My crankcase is a rubber mounted low frame one so in the RP it will only come out if I remove the flywheel cover. I don't have to remove the throttle shaft. It appears that a previous owner has introduced the area around the bell housing/bulkhead interface to the Manchester spanner...
The floor pan has been cut so that the unit can be removed without having to disconnect the clutch pedal from the bell housing. All I have to do is to unscrew the pedal end to allow it to pass through. OK it's not what the rivet counters would like but what the hell. It's a damned sight easier!
I am fortunate that I have an electric hoist so I can leave the ancillaries in place (dynamo, manifolds etc) . I take the starter motor off because it's easier to get at the r/o/s mounting.
![[Image: 20190504-155100.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/x1hCRLpH/20190504-155100.jpg)
The front engine mounts work the other way. The castellated nuts are wound right down to the bottom of their threads so that they can then be removed from the threaded portion in the chassis rail. Being unable to "lock" them in position means that I have to occasionally recheck them for tightness after re-fitting but it does make removal (and refitting)of the unit easier if they're taken out. My crankcase is a rubber mounted low frame one so in the RP it will only come out if I remove the flywheel cover. I don't have to remove the throttle shaft. It appears that a previous owner has introduced the area around the bell housing/bulkhead interface to the Manchester spanner...
The floor pan has been cut so that the unit can be removed without having to disconnect the clutch pedal from the bell housing. All I have to do is to unscrew the pedal end to allow it to pass through. OK it's not what the rivet counters would like but what the hell. It's a damned sight easier!
I am fortunate that I have an electric hoist so I can leave the ancillaries in place (dynamo, manifolds etc) . I take the starter motor off because it's easier to get at the r/o/s mounting.