12-04-2022, 07:49 AM
I'm surprised you would need an electric fan if you've fitted a large capacity rad core for the kind of use you describe.The fan shouldn't need to run full time on a seven anyway,many run on the road without a fan belt.
Have you tried back flushing the coolant system or using a de scaler it.
Often on lightly used cars the inside of the alum water branches corrode badly and can clog everything up.
I owned a model A Ford from Uruguay,as soon as I got it on the road it overheated,did the water drop test and seemed ok ,problem persisted so had it re cored.Great for a year or two then the problem returned,core blocked up again.
Can only think the build up in the head and block loosened up and started circulating in the water again.
Can you see through the filler if the rad tubes are clear ?
I make up a conical brass gauze filter for a couple of my cars,hopefully to block the filter rather than the rad core.
I did post a photo on here once showing how bad the block can silt up,particularly around the valve chest side,a good 1 1/2" up from the bottom with no effective water cooling.
Have you tried back flushing the coolant system or using a de scaler it.
Often on lightly used cars the inside of the alum water branches corrode badly and can clog everything up.
I owned a model A Ford from Uruguay,as soon as I got it on the road it overheated,did the water drop test and seemed ok ,problem persisted so had it re cored.Great for a year or two then the problem returned,core blocked up again.
Can only think the build up in the head and block loosened up and started circulating in the water again.
Can you see through the filler if the rad tubes are clear ?
I make up a conical brass gauze filter for a couple of my cars,hopefully to block the filter rather than the rad core.
I did post a photo on here once showing how bad the block can silt up,particularly around the valve chest side,a good 1 1/2" up from the bottom with no effective water cooling.