12-12-2020, 05:08 PM
Thanks to all for the help and info. regarding the engine and cylinder head removal on my RN
A lot of patience/WD40 /swearing and some carefully applied wedges have shifted the blighter.
My next problem is that the rear head studs and the limited clearance in the bulkhead recess make it impossible to remove the head.
I'm quickly coming to the conclusion, as has been suggested, that the chassis may be slightly bent and allowing the engine to be too close to the bulkhead,
Rather that a complete strip down of body and chassis to check and correct I'm considering shimming the rear engine mounts to put it back where I think it should be and giving me the correct clearance.
It would probably explain why the car has always seemed very noisy because I think the engine has been drumming on the bulkhead but never having been in another car I have nothing to compare.
The other little clues to the chassis and engine positioning is the starting handle is at the top of the oval hole in the rad surround indicating that the engine is tilted back a little. The bonnet is not a particularly good fit either
Howard suggested shimming the body to compensate - is this an easier and/or better option than tilting the engine a little.
As ever thanks for all the help and advice
Barry Townsend
A lot of patience/WD40 /swearing and some carefully applied wedges have shifted the blighter.
My next problem is that the rear head studs and the limited clearance in the bulkhead recess make it impossible to remove the head.
I'm quickly coming to the conclusion, as has been suggested, that the chassis may be slightly bent and allowing the engine to be too close to the bulkhead,
Rather that a complete strip down of body and chassis to check and correct I'm considering shimming the rear engine mounts to put it back where I think it should be and giving me the correct clearance.
It would probably explain why the car has always seemed very noisy because I think the engine has been drumming on the bulkhead but never having been in another car I have nothing to compare.
The other little clues to the chassis and engine positioning is the starting handle is at the top of the oval hole in the rad surround indicating that the engine is tilted back a little. The bonnet is not a particularly good fit either
Howard suggested shimming the body to compensate - is this an easier and/or better option than tilting the engine a little.
As ever thanks for all the help and advice
Barry Townsend
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !