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Rear Axle Woes
#1
Those who were at VSCC Prescott may have noticed my inability to get off the line for the afternoon runs.
The pinion had stripped it's teeth.
I started to take things apart as soon as possible, as you do. 

The axle is a long nose 30/31 type that I'd bought from someone I know well. It was rebuilt but never I never inspected it or took it apart. I strongly believe the vendor never really inspected it either.
Due to a hub puller made of cheese full disassembly has to wait until one arrives, so I decided to remove the torque tube and look inside.

On removing the torque tube I saw this

     

No teeth - I expected this but I didn't know that the pinion ball race had been replaced by a roller, which in itself isn't a crime. What was wrong was that the roller race had self destructed.

I then took the torque tube apart and found that the pinion was in fact a later type with the 1 1/8 step, so the the bearing would be a lighter type roller, as described by Jack French in the standard texts. Not the ideal axle for a blown Ulster, so possibly waiting to break.

   

I then took a look inside the pinion housing and saw lots of rollers and could see where the outer race of the roller had walked forwards, let the rollers out and left witness marks on the edge of the crownwheel. My suspicion is that the roller outer race was missing the locating pin that is part of a D type axle. Naughty!

   

So then I went to the shed and looked for alternative axle parts. 
Matched pairs are nice but I don't have a religious dedication to them, so looked for compatible parts.  I found a good looking 5.25 set with a decent crownwheel but the pinion has one tooth with some bruising. Opinions on the usability of this would be welcomed, as would be the best approach to using a 1 1/8" stepped pinion in a long nose banjo and any alternative approaches.

   

   

When I get the full axle apart I'll check the diff for run out and the usual checks. The very expensive and critical AC bearings on the pinion feel good but will have a thorough inspection in due course.


Charles
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#2
I've used these later pinions in the 30/31 axle in the past, just had a good engine machine shop with cylindrical grinder reduce the pinion diameter to 1". Not sure whether it goes through the case hardening or whether the pinion is through hardened at that point but I usually assemble with Loctite to stop the dreaded "shuffle" of pinion support components.
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#3
I think I'd look to go back to the correct pinion and bearing, Charles. Given your car and how it's used, it has to be the better set up. I've two suitable pinions and you're welcome to one of them but I've no suitable crown wheels to go with them I'm afraid. However, if the unmatched set you've got has a decent crown wheel then putting that with one of my pinions would just make another unmatched set so worth a try?

Steve
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#4
(27-09-2023, 01:57 PM)Steve Jones Wrote: I think I'd look to go back to the correct pinion and bearings, Charles. Given your car and how it's used, it has to be the better set up. I've two suitable pinions and you're welcome to one of them but I've no suitable crown wheels to go with them I'm afraid. However, if the unmatched set you've got has a decent crown wheel then putting that with one of my pinions would just make another unmatched set so worth a try?

Steve

The person who used it put in a stepped pinion and the later D type roller bearing with a 3/4" spacer.   This bearing has a higher load capacity than the MJ1 ball race that Austin intended when used with a 1" parallel pinion. 
Are your orphan pinions stepped or parallel? My 5.25 crown wheel is unmarked but the bruise on the pinion is a mild concern. It passed a dye pen test this morning but is still a worry.

I'll wait until I've got the rest apart before definitive next steps

c
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#5
Both parallel but I do have an orphaned stepped pinion as well so both options available.

Steve
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#6
I’d go for the roller bearing. The earlier ball bearing set up has produced some of the most worn bearings I’ve ever seen. You can, of course drill and tap the centre casing to take a locating peg like the D type axle. Or, if you were a philistine like me (which you aren’t) you might consider locating the outer race with a quick burst of tig welder. I will deny having said that.
Alan Fairless
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#7
Axle making progress.

Decided to make some extra torque tube shims since my collection was depleted.
I came up with the simplest approach I could envisage. Two Ruby rear axle bearing housings bolted together and a broken 3/8 extension turned down and ground into a punch. 
Works a dream

   


And at the propshaft end I decided to follow Terry Griffin's lead and put a lip seal in

First off, don't waste that crappy broken pinion. 
I cut the remains of the gear off with an angle grinder and used the rest as a taper mandrel in the collet chuck to hold the drive flange and clean up the surface ready for a lip seal.

   

and then machined a recess in the brass scroll for the seal

   
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