Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Has anyone got a good source of quality fibre washers?
Im struggling to seal the banjo on the 26va carb on the RP.
The issue is a rough surface on the carb body. I have tickled with a file, but there are a few pits, and this seems to cause a weep.
The old hard fibre washer was NBG. A new washer was better, but seems to keep compressing with time and every time I find it leaking again the perishing thing is basically loose.
I had it all dry. Started the car yeasterday morning and quickly had a drip. The banjo was fairly loose. Nipped it up (dry again).
50 miles later (when I got home) dripping again, and the banjo loose. Nipped again last night. I found it pretty lose again this morning as I took it off as I am going to anneal the pipe today, also attempt to improve the carb face with some JB weld and a file
Can anyone recommend a supplier of good fibre washers that do not do this?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 698 Threads: 29
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Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
i had the sane problem and replaced the fibre washer with a dowty one following recommendations here and all has been good since.
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 264 Threads: 17
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Location: Deepest Norfolk
I always use copper washers on the banjo
Rick
In deepest Norfolk
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,114 Threads: 67
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New fibre washers aren't a patch on the original style - not from any source I have found, anyway. New ones are made from material that appears far too hard and doesn't compress at all, it seems.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 772 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Screw grade Loctite or similar will make a petrol proof joint, without needing to overtighten fragile components.
Because it is only screw grade, it doesn't make the joint hard to undo.
Joined: Feb 2021 Posts: 269 Threads: 30
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Location: New Zealand
Car type: Austin 7 Ruby 1938
I wrecked the thread in one carburettor body when trying to tighten the banjo bolt sufficently to eliminate the petrol leak. Don't bother annealing the fuel pipe. I went one better and put in a flexible section of pipe which still didn't allow me to cure the leakage.
I finally used a sealant on both surfaces of the banjo and on the sides of the fibre washer and gently tightened the banjo bolt. It's been leak-free for a year now.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
Annealing the pipe is a good idea, it removes stress in the joint improving the ability to seal and also reduces the tendency for copper to crack as it work hardens over the years. Fibre washers relax under compression in my experience and need checking a couple of times when a joint has been newly made, once they have settled in you should have no more problems. Graham I suggest that you had another issue that compounded your problem and which prevented you from gaining a leak free joint, such as damaged faces old hard washers, stretched raised thread, or some other issue. All that said a light smear with a petrol resistant sealant is a good idea if all else fails even though I have rarely ever found the need to do so.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Maybe not in this application but can often place an O ring inside a washer somewhat thinner. As mentioned before the thread convenietyly retaps to 1/2 UNF as later Zeniths.
