Ruby track rod pin

[Pricey]

Hello.

Please can someone assist me with a couple of questions.

On my 1937 Ruby I'm in the process of removing some of the play(not all) in the steering.

I've found the n/s track rod end where there is clear excessive play in the pin even when filled with grease.

I can see the parts I need from several of the cherished suppliers but the pin is solid in the track rod. So Im not wasting efforts/ causing damage, with the cotter pin removed but uppermost what is the correction direction to drive the pin out of the track rod end?

My other question is regarding suspension.

It has definite lean to the left side. Not just on one wheel but the whole left side.What components can cause this.

I've tried searching on the old forum but haven't found answers but that might be me searching with the wrong terms.

Thanks for any pointers

cheers Dave

[Matt_Harnden]

The pin should come out from either side. It should be a nice sliding fit through a bronze bush. If someone didn't ream the bush properly then it may be wedged in place?

As for the leaning, check that one of the U bolts that holds the front spring in place hasn't broken or that the spring isn't located correctly on the chassis. Also, check that the front axle beam isn't broken, bent or split?

Is there excessive play in the kingpin making the front stub axle loose?

[peter burton]

Hi Dave,

Don't get track rod cotters muddled up with king pin cotters, very different animals.

I find it easier to take off the complete track rod assembly from the axle beam, this makes it easier to drive out the cotter from the front threaded end. This usually kills the thread but no worries as you should use new cotters anyway. Pre assemble the new bush, pin and cotter as the pin and bush can be tight, lastly make sure the cotter goes in correctly from the back without binding on the pin (about 1/8" of the cotter should stick out from the back of the track rod arm) and don't over tighten the nut. Driving out track rod arm cotters on the car can easily lead to tears.

Springs, hopefully more knowledgeable Austineers can help here.

Peter,

Cornwall, sinking with tourists.

Hello.

Please can someone assist me with a couple of questions.

On my 1937 Ruby I'm in the process of removing some of the play(not all) in the steering.

I've found the n/s track rod end where there is clear excessive play in the pin even when filled with grease.

I can see the parts I need from several of the cherished suppliers but the pin is solid in the track rod. So Im not wasting efforts/ causing damage, with the cotter pin removed but uppermost what is the correction direction to drive the pin out of the track rod end?

My other question is regarding suspension.

It has definite lean to the left side. Not just on one wheel but the whole left side.What components can cause this.

I've tried searching on the old forum but haven't found answers but that might be me searching with the wrong terms.

Thanks for any pointers

cheers Dave

[Mark Dymond]

My car sat very low on one side, this I had assumed was due to a suspension issue. Turns out it had a hairline crack along the chassis extensions that support the body at the rear. This was only apparent by jacking up and down the body on the low side while lying underneath the car. Give this a try, it may reveal the source of some movement, although hopefully it's a source that's an easy fix.

[Mark R]

I'd agree with taking the track rod out to work on the bench, remove both nuts then wiggle the steering a bit to loosen them, be careful not to damage the threads if you try to hammer them out at all. The cotter needs to come out completley!, Unlike the kingpin one which will not then support it and tap out the pin either way.

Regarding the lean cars do settle on the springs, measure the height at the rear just under the chassis end of the springs to the ground, one spring may just be flatter after all of these years? I'd be looking at the rear for your lean more than the front, I may be wrong though. It may be a broken/loose u bolt on the rear left spring even?

[Derek Sheldon]

It could be as simple as your dampers being too tight. Try sitting in the passenger seat then get out and look.

[Reckless Rat]

It could be as simple as your dampers being too tight. Try sitting in the passenger seat then get out and look.

I thought that. If you can push on the side of the car that's low and it stands up afterwards it might well be the damper over-tight. Mine used to do it until I backed them off a bit.

[Pricey]

Thanks for the replies -

Matt_H.    No play in kingpins, definitely track rod on just the nearside. Good to know it comes out either side. I've got a modecum of movement in one direction.

I have had a good look at the fastenings and spring leaves and axle beam but cannot see damage or wrongly located components but a more experienced eye may do so?


Peter B.    I am definitely working on the track rod and have removed the cotter with no issues but was perplexed as to whether the pin was tapered or not. As you say I could be reduced to tears if brute force and ignorance are employed hence I am using a g-cramp to apply pressure and I've got a modecum of movement now so hopefully it will come out soon.

Mark R.  A tired spring was in my mind until some of the other posts. Is this something you have encountered ? If so did you get you springs reset or replaced ?

Derek S and Reckless.  That kind of fits with how it feels. If I physically push the car straight it will return to the left but finds a different position each time.  I only have one book for reference by a man called Nicholson who say steer clear of the rear damper. Can you describe how to reset the dampers correctly?

Again thank you everyone for your help so far. Brilliant

cheers

Dave

[Derek Sheldon]

It's a case of trial and error, try slackening the nuts , there should be two , locking nut and the adjusting nut , it is a very fine thread. Might be worth taking them apart to look a their condition. They may be wood or the more modern composite, all parts available from our cue usher suppliers.

[Matt_Harnden]

Dave,

Regarding your comments to Derek and Reckless, I had a very similar thing recently and found the problem to be binding/sticking rear dampers.

I think the problem may have been that the damper nuts were overtight (as Derek suggests), but also the dampers themselves were quite dirty and 'gummed up' with road dirt. After disassembling and cleaning the friction dampers in Petrol I reassembled and adjusted. Now everything is back to normal.

If you need an exploded view then email me and I can send it to you.

Hope this helps you?

Matt