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Bonnet alignment
#1
There is a gap at rear edge of the bonnet as you will see in the first pic. The second pic shows that the stone guard is off centre where the starting handle goes through. The front of the bonnet is correctly lined up, i.e. it doesn't overlay the edge of the radiator surround, although it could pull back the necessary amount without causing a major issue.

For starters I am inclined to just slacken everything off and wiggle it all about, but suspect that getting one bit right will put another bit out.

All bright ideas gratefully received.

You may notice the nearside headlight is out of alignment. I have adjusted this at the headlight mounting since the pic was taken, although the nearside mudguard does still appear a little higher than its opposite number.


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#2
Hi Colin,

We've already emailed about bonnet fit, but just looking at your photos I think your body mounted bonnet catch is the wrong one. 

Believe it should be as per attached photo, and is the same as the knackered one that was on mine. Photo is from the Austin Seven Workshop.

Nick


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.jpg   austin7bonnetfastenerswingfitting__1400001__.jpg (Size: 52.16 KB / Downloads: 486)
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#3
(19-11-2017, 01:26 PM)Colin Wilks Wrote: There is a gap at rear edge of the bonnet as you will see in the first pic. The second pic shows that the stone guard is off centre where the starting handle goes through. The front of the bonnet is correctly lined up, i.e. it doesn't overlay the edge of the radiator surround, although it could pull back the necessary amount without causing a major issue.

For starters I am inclined to just slacken everything off and wiggle it all about, but suspect that getting one bit right will put another bit out.

All bright ideas gratefully received.

You may notice the nearside headlight is out of alignment. I have adjusted this at the headlight mounting since the pic was taken, although the nearside mudguard does still appear a little higher than its opposite number.
This doesn't help, but I must admire your petrol pumps and signs....you'll make Shed and Buried somewhat jealous! Marvellous stuff!

Now, being new to Sevens though I have Ruby transforming itself into an Ulster Special, I notice the large gap between the sets of louvres in the bonnet sides and I've been comparing louvres on 65s/Nippy/Speedy etc  plus those on Ulsters.

On my Rod Yates body he has made the lower side panels on both sides (I asked him to do likewise on the LHS) with continuous louvres with no wide gap. I've noticed that on some original Ulsters, the LHS at least has the wide gap between sets of louvres, though most repro Ulster specials seem not to have louvres on the LHS. There is a specific picture of the Lord March/SCH Davis Ulster at Brooklands showing louvres on the LHS.

The Ulster at Brooklands, (James Anderton) does not have louvres on the LHS.

Am I asking a silly question....could one have louvres or no louvres in one's bonnets by special order from the agent/factory perhaps?

I like the louvres in the top of the bonnet halves of the Brooklands Ulster and Rod Yates is going to retro punch louvres for me once I've sorted out the actual position of panels etc.

Just an aside....I bought a series of Brooklands autographs on ebay from an autograph album dated Brooklands 1927, and amongst John Cobb, Wolf Barnato, Malcolm Cambell, Kaye Don and other names yet to be deciphered, is SCH Davis, so I'm quite pleased with these. 

Sorry, I've crossed threads slightly here.

Arthur
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#4
(19-11-2017, 03:09 PM)merlinart Wrote:
(19-11-2017, 01:26 PM)Colin Wilks Wrote: There is a gap at rear edge of the bonnet as you will see in the first pic. The second pic shows that the stone guard is off centre where the starting handle goes through. The front of the bonnet is correctly lined up, i.e. it doesn't overlay the edge of the radiator surround, although it could pull back the necessary amount without causing a major issue.

For starters I am inclined to just slacken everything off and wiggle it all about, but suspect that getting one bit right will put another bit out.

All bright ideas gratefully received.

You may notice the nearside headlight is out of alignment. I have adjusted this at the headlight mounting since the pic was taken, although the nearside mudguard does still appear a little higher than its opposite number.
This doesn't help, but I must admire your petrol pumps and signs....you'll make Shed and Buried somewhat jealous! Marvellous stuff!

Now, being new to Sevens though I have Ruby transforming itself into an Ulster Special, I notice the large gap between the sets of louvres in the bonnet sides and I've been comparing louvres on 65s/Nippy/Speedy etc  plus those on Ulsters.

On my Rod Yates body he has made the lower side panels on both sides (I asked him to do likewise on the LHS) with continuous louvres with no wide gap. I've noticed that on some original Ulsters, the LHS at least has the wide gap between sets of louvres, though most repro Ulster specials seem not to have louvres on the LHS. There is a specific picture of the Lord March/SCH Davis Ulster at Brooklands showing louvres on the LHS.

The Ulster at Brooklands, (James Anderton) does not have louvres on the LHS.

Am I asking a silly question....could one have louvres or no louvres in one's bonnets by special order from the agent/factory perhaps?

I like the louvres in the top of the bonnet halves of the Brooklands Ulster and Rod Yates is going to retro punch louvres for me once I've sorted out the actual position of panels etc.

Just an aside....I bought a series of Brooklands autographs on ebay from an autograph album dated Brooklands 1927, and amongst John Cobb, Wolf Barnato, Malcolm Cambell, Kaye Don and other names yet to be deciphered, is SCH Davis, so I'm quite pleased with these. 

Sorry, I've crossed threads slightly here.

Arthur
Hello Arthur,

I cannot claim the background as my own. The photos were taken at Roger Fulton's Vintage Petrol Pump Garage near Pickering in North Yorkshire, which is where I bought the 1934 Type 65.

Although about to draw my pension for the first time, I noticed Sevens only about a year ago, when I spotted what turned out to be a Rod Yates bodied Ulster repro for sale in a local garage and I went in to see if it would accommodate my 6'2".
Your crossing of threads reminds me of a (probably apocryphal) story of a philosophy question, the answer to which neatly called the examiner's bluff.
Q "If this is a question, answer it."
A "If that is a question, this is an answer."

But we digress, if anyone does have any ideas about the bonnet alignment I'd love to hear them, but thanks to NickB for pointing out the possible glitch with the catch.
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#5
Nick is correct regarding the bonnet catch, although I don't think that is causing the misalignment. There is usually enough adjustment in the radiator cowl mounting to take up that sort of movement (you'll need to slacken off the top radiator hose) but with the Nippy having the headlamp brackets fixed to the shell you may have less flexibility in adjustment; and you probably won't be able to adjust out the misalignment of the starting handle hole.
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#6
I'd go with the "slacken everything of" approach. Aside from the headlamp mounts, your main problem will be to try to keep the crank looking symmetrical and evening out the disparity of the bonnet ends.
The other approach is to take everything off, perhaps including the cow horns and assemble the body panels without the radiator. You may find that some of the holes are oval or elongated and this may allow better alignment. Sometimes making a hole 1/16" bigger can give a surprising amount of compound error at some distance.
Wait for a day when you have nothing else to do and start early without a deadline to finish to give yourself the best possible head for the job.
If it has never been correct since you bought the car it maybe that it has never been right at all, I've seen some truly grim shut lines over the years. Not everyone is as particular as the next man!
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#7
it would be helpful to see a pic of the side of the cowl and the rubber above, as it might give a clue seeing the bottom panels overlap. The rear is quite a way out, as the rubber lip isn't actually overlaying the raised bodywork. You could compare the emerging distance of the nocepiece with other cars, perhaps?
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#8
(19-11-2017, 05:16 PM)JonE Wrote: it would be helpful to see a pic of the side of the cowl and the rubber above, as it might give a clue seeing the bottom panels overlap. The rear is quite a way out, as the rubber lip isn't actually overlaying the raised bodywork. You could compare the emerging distance of the nocepiece with other cars, perhaps?

Hi Jon,

This is the best I've got for now I'm afraid. Currently banned from the garage while the new hip I had installed two days ago sorts itself out. The foward vertical edge of the bonnet is hard up on, but not overlapping, the rubber of the rad surround, but I'm still thinking (hoping) this is a misalignment issue rather than "someone's made the bloody bonnet to short".

I suppose I am naively hoping someone out there may have had an identical problem and will come up with a pat answer for me, although I have a feeling that the same problem on two sevens may have two entirely different solutions. I am used to series land rovers, which you can hit with a hammer to rectify most things. I remain in awe of this jewel like newcomer!


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#9
Looks nice Colin, (mine is almost identical, just not finished!)

I notice though that the windscreen appears to have a thicker than normal rubber at its base - I.e. a bigger gap than normal, and where the windscreen support is bolted through that it might, from the reflection, have been pushed inwards?

This might indicate some nearside damage that has distorted the panel, and consequently mucked up the bonnet fit.

Nick
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#10
Hard to see in that side view, but the bonnet does look like it's positioned too far forward, and may respond to just slackening the mounting on the radiator stay ... and perhaps hitting it with a very small hammer  Big Grin
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