Ulster body painting

[Dennis Nicholas]

No doubt at all that POR15 is jolly good stuff. However, that 3-stage (actually, 4 stage, if you want uv resistance) process is difficult to manage on a floorpan in situ without leaving a general mess elsewhere. It is also a barrier coating, which is fine for whole parts, but less fine if there is a painted edge under which corrosion can creep (e.g. from the floor to body joint). I can't help wondering how well other coatings (including Hammerite) would fare if they benefitted from the same religious preparation incl. phosphate coat. Fact remains that it is overkill on a typical Austin Seven - most of our cars don't go out in the salt and snow much!

I agree the prep stages are a pain but suspect any other good paint system needs equally as much prep.
Hammerite formula was changed a few years ago..-in my view to its detriment-.....try using the original thinners with the latest stuff and see what happens!!!!  (was it EU rules to do with the chemicals in use?) I very carefully prepared bits under my Scimitar and used the newer formula including its new thinners (thats when I discovered my part full tin of thinners was obsolete!!) but very soon the paint was trash.  I am a bit of a perfectionist....even the nuts and washers I use get blasted and painted BEFORE fitting then a coat after fitting to touch up any damage such as filing bolts level with nut faces and digs from internal toothed lock-washers).  Waxoil did not save the day either.
Salt and snow.......It is not just the salt and snow that makes rust, any damp atmosphere which seeps everywhere will cause unprotected steel to rust......do you have a heated dehumidified storage?
Painted edge.....Paint both sides and seam sealer will also help before the final cosmetic colour coat of your choice. No paint will prevent raw steel edges rusting and the rust spreading under.   Floor to body seam......KBS paint carefully brushed into seam will seal it.   Overlapping new panels welded in - treat with weld through primer before putting together and welding, then the KBS outer coating.
A hot air gun is extremely good for quick drying after washing during the prep period.
Once again check out the independent comments from the many American magazines and users/forums on the internet.  
I know I am in my early 70s but I hope I will be around in XX years time to prove the fruits of my labour    Give me a call in 2037 for a situation report on the Nippy chassis, running gear and body.  

Dennis

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My biggest problem with POR15 was that rust spread extensively beneath it, it is the only paint system where I have experienced this to the same degree. 

That tends to show proper prep was not carried out.  Spread from where?
If you get it on your skin the only way to remove it is when that bit of skin gets worn off....ask me how I know.  My skin is not 100% waterproof and I am a bit damp inside....but still the paint remained and flexed (but no rust).......using a grinder did not seem to be a a preferred removal technique   

Dennis