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1934 Austin 7 Box engine removal
#1
Can anyone tell me the correct procedure for removal of the engine and gearbox ?. Does it come out from above , or has it to be dropped underneath?...….and what is the order of removal (all ancilliaries and radiator have been removed already ,
Thanks.
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#2
Upwards and much easier with the gearbox off. A strong pal or an engine hoist should be used to avoid injury.
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#3
without ancilleries and rad, it should be out in less than 30 mins.

I take out with gearbox. But your choice.

Undo exhaust. Carb linkage. fuel pump to tank pipe. Dynamo wires. Dizzy wires (HT and ignition) and linkage. Oil pressure pipe. foot pedal off the clutch lever. Top off the gearbox. Undo the propshaft.

4 engine mounts and shes free. jack up the drivers side to lift the clutch pedal above the chassis rail and slide forward. I dont lift it, just ease it up onto the nosepiece and onto blocks of wood set at the same height. The clutch pedal and the floor usually cause some swearing.
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#4
Thanks. I've separated the gearbox , removed the engine mounting bolts , but there isn't enough room to directly lift the engine as the rear flywheel end catches on the bulkhead and moving the engine forward it catches on the chassis!.
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#5
I use a chain hoist and 18mm ring bolts in the plug holes (I used to lift them by hand but my mid-seventy-year-old back is no longer up to it!). I  also free off the throttle cross shaft from the firewall.

It's then a process of a small lift,a pull forward and a tilt, repeated until the flywheel is clear of the firewall, after which it's a straight lift. It's sometime necessary to move a ring bolt forward or aft to get the right angle of tilt.
Rick

In deepest Norfolk
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#6
Have you removed the metal cover over the flywheel?. It might help.
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#7
Have you got a low chassis crankcase in the car? There is much less room due the engine mounts being lower on the crankcase than a high chassis crankcase.

If the rear catches the bulkhead, take the flywheel cover off. As Rick has noted undoing the throttle shaft can give you a bit more room.

With the gearbox disconnected you just have to tilt the engine to get the sump out if the V. And drag it forward over the nosepiece
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#8
My car has cast aluminium sump. This is deeper than the standard pressed steel variety and has to be removed to clear the chassis nosepiece. The engine needs to be tilted up at the front.
Jim
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#9
You have to tilt the front upwards a lot so the flywheel drops back and down, and the front of the engine is above the chassis - then it will move forward to get the flywheel clear.
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#10
I generally undo the throttle pedal shaft at the pedal end and hinge it up out of the way.    It's a good idea to put a piece of cardboard over the gearbox in place of the cover, stops foreign bodies falling in!  I also pop a sheet of corrugated cardboard from a cardboard box between the cylinder block and the bulkhead, it saves damage when the engine is tilted up to clear the chassis nosepiece.   If you haven't done it before, it is surprising the angle you need to tilt the engine to get it out.   Once you've done it once it's like falling off a log!
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