| The following warnings occurred: | ||||||||||||
Warning [2] Undefined variable $search_thread - Line: 60 - File: showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.28 (Linux)
|
|
Manifold stud removal
|
20-09-2017, 04:56 PM
I am having trouble removing the two manifold studs from the block, prior to fitting a HC head to my RP saloon. I've soaked them with WD 40, and tried using two lock nuts. The block is still in the car, so I can't use a blow-lamp. Anyone have a suggestion?
Alan
20-09-2017, 07:11 PM
Well somebody'd better say something....if only 'good luck Alan'....
Are we talking about the water manifold on top of the head? Personally I'd use a blow lamp only with great caution around the cylinder block, whether it's in the car or not, for fear of cracking it. Heat the stud not the block. Some folks strike a welder arc on the end of the stud in the hope that the local heat input will loosen it. If 2 nuts locked together won't shift it I have on occasions had luck with a stud remover of this kind https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1...-p2925113e - sorry that was just the first example I found. I'm afraid it's more than likely you will shear at least one of them off. If this happens don't try to use a hardened stud extractor (they have been known to break off in the stud leaving you with a worse problem), but drill out and re-tap. Don't attempt to drill out with a hand drill, or even a bench drill unless you are very competent with it, but take it to a machine shop and wave 20 quid about. Otherwise Doug Woodrow's Austin Seven Manual describes some handy tools to facilitate accurate drilling, if you have a budget to get some made or can borrow them from someone. By this point taking the block off would be inevitable I think. Good luck Alan! 
20-09-2017, 07:17 PM
Well, two suggestions. One is the rather drastic step of welding a 5/16 nut onto the stud,close to the block and hoping the heat makes it loosen. It sometimes works. But before you try that, locknut a pair of nuts onto the stud. Then with a spanner apply a cycling torque, to about the level you'd expect the stud to unscrew. Do this rapidly lots of times. With any luck it will work.
20-09-2017, 08:01 PM
Despite what a lot of people think, WD40 is not designed at a penetrant. Use PlusGas!
20-09-2017, 08:13 PM
WD40 ain't a penetrating fluid, it's Water Dispersal formula number 40 (hence the WD40 name).
I use Plusgas, but believe a mix of ATF (auto transmission fluid) and acetone (nail varnish remover) is the best solution. I believe these two liquids are immiscible, but if shaken vigorously before use perform very well.
20-09-2017, 09:09 PM
Stating the obvious but you do not mention, a few short sharp medium hammer blows on end may help shock free, or assist penetrant to enter. Heating to red weakens the stud but the loosening effect may compensate. By blowlamp I presume you mean the devices used by painters and in the past plumbers but these a bit unwieldly. Ditto heat guns. Cheap small torches running off tramper style canisters are available. Short nuts locked are seldom adequate
TIf you loop a piece of thick sewing thread around the stud between the two nuts before nipping them, it helps to stop them turning. I use sail making thread, but any fine stringy stuff would do.
20-09-2017, 10:20 PM
20-09-2017, 10:26 PM
|
|
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
|
