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When I played with the rear brakes on the Tourer I was surprised by how much fettling I had to do.
Almost mothing fitted straight away, and had to be cleaned up with a file.
Particularly relevant here: "the cotter will only go in one way"
I clean the hole in the lever up until the cotter is an easy fit and will drop through from either side.
In my case, the other hole in the lever was tight on the cam spindle - that needs to be a moving fit, not grabbing anywhere.
The shoes have 1.2mm new end caps, made by me. The linings are straight on to the shoes.
The pivot posts on the front brakes have .8mm zinc shims, but the rears will only take .2mm shims made from a tin.
There must be a point where the shimming of the post is too much.
If I got to that point, and had no other parts available, I might pack out the linings on the shoes.
Simon
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Simon - have you considered new drums?
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on that drum subject, Jim posted years ago on the old forum about using 1 1/4" drums which are less flexible than the 1" ones... and "allowed wheel lock up". I'm presuming they must fit directly. Have others adopted this route prior to Ruaridh's point above?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 772 Threads: 26
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Hi Ruairidh
Yes, and will go that way if I have to.
But I like exploring the old ways of "make do and mend" because that is what I was brought up with, and it teaches me so much about the way things work together.
Which helps when you buy new components that don't fit properly!
Simon
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The new drums are excellent - I fully reccomend them to you Simon.
If the new parts you bought don’t fit you really should let the supplier know otherwise they won’t have a chance to rectify it. Other factors can come into play with fit but a heads-up to your supplier in the first instance would seem prudent.
Almost all brake parts, with the noteable exception of shoes and a few other crossshaft parts, are now available to buy new. Brakes are important and should not be skimped on, in my opinion.
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John Barlow lists new 1-1/4" shoes with linings at £15 each.
I have them on my front brakes.
Jim
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That is excellent news Jim - someone was looking to buy new ones very recently on here.
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
06-03-2019, 08:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-03-2019, 08:03 PM by Howard Wright.
Edit Reason: didn't quote original post
)
In response to Bill's request for how much pedal travel there should be.
Hi Bill
I don't know but I would like to. Hopefully this pushes the post to the top and we'll get a response?.
I guess it's down to cable stretch, cross shaft twist and tolerances in bearings etc. Assuming the shoes, cams etc are spot on.
Cheers
Howard
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Hi Howard
Thanks for re-raising my question. I hope to Jim and his 90 year
old car on Sunday and will ask him. I’ve driven his car round Melrose
but I was too busy thinking about gear changes !!
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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Each car varies in my experience - provided the brakes actuate fully with a least an inch of space between it and the floorpan I am happy.
Uncouple brakes are a lot easier to set up and get working properly compared to coupled ones.
