28-09-2018, 09:52 PM
If the cars were being run on plain water as they would have done when designed and built in the early 1920's any leaky studs in the lock would soon seal of their own accord as they rusted up. Of course the threads when new would have been nice and accurate and easy to seal. This is how we seal rivetted pressure vessells on our steam engines. We accellerate the sealing by urinating in the water
Nowadays most blocks are cracked between 2 & 3. The threads are either original and worn or stretched or new and bigger or helicolied. Theres no wonder they leak, particularly given the use of antifreeze.
I put a mixture if steam oil (1000 grade) and graphite flake made into a thick paste on the studs for the head and manifold and this seems to work well when it come to take the offending article off. Even on studs sealed only at the nut end.
The RP will have had a new gasket on it, but father only ever used grease. There is a block ready to go on the bench should the addition of goo not be successfull. The head gasket (and new water manifold) is on order.
Nowadays most blocks are cracked between 2 & 3. The threads are either original and worn or stretched or new and bigger or helicolied. Theres no wonder they leak, particularly given the use of antifreeze.
I put a mixture if steam oil (1000 grade) and graphite flake made into a thick paste on the studs for the head and manifold and this seems to work well when it come to take the offending article off. Even on studs sealed only at the nut end.
The RP will have had a new gasket on it, but father only ever used grease. There is a block ready to go on the bench should the addition of goo not be successfull. The head gasket (and new water manifold) is on order.