20-04-2018, 10:53 PM
(20-04-2018, 09:53 PM)JonE Wrote: I bought one of these (below) and you need a 3/4 Whitworth socket to tighten up tight after all done.Hours of harmless fun ahead! The AG is SWB chassis....I will have another look at the numbers.
Both Ruairidh and Chris Gould advised me that one does need to split the diff to replace the shaft, and make sure the exact position is maintained. I just did the key on mine.
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C918694
Are you sure its not 9 over 44 at the end? Sounds like SWB from that date anyway?
Some of advice given to me - I copy directly from Chris's email...
Unfortunately to do the job properly you will have to remove the half shaft. You don't have to remove the whole axle, just the nearside half. Support the car on axle stands under the rear cross member. Remove the offside hub flange. Remove the near side spring pin and jack up the differential case until the nearside casing clears the spring. Undo the casing bolts and remove the half casing complete with differential and half shafts. Dismantle the differential and remove the half shaft. The two sides of the differential cage must go back in the same position relative to each other. You will find that there are marks on the side of it to line them up.
Check that the taper isn't too damaged. The hub flange must be lapped onto the half shaft to give a matt finish all round. Use course grinding past at first followed by fine. You can buy the paste from motor factor. Halfords would probably sell it. The tins often have lids on both ends, with coarse paste in one end and fine in the other. There is a danger that if it is overdone The gear on the end will move outwards too much and bind on the inside of the differential. I have in emergency got over this problem by wrapping the taper with a piece of shim brass. Use a new key which must be a tight fit in the groove. Make sure that there is clearance on top of the key when the hub flange is fitted. Clean off the grinding paste thoroughly, reassemble and make sure that the half shaft nut is very tight. Use a tight fitting split pin. Make sure that the castellation lines up with the hole in the shaft. If it doesn't, file the face of the nut so that it will wind on until it does.
Lots of good pages on web too, from Dorset and Devon clubs, on halfshafts....
The instruction " remove the n/s spring pin" reminds me of the instruction to remove the front spring pin on a TR3 rear axle where you insert a 3/8 unf bolt into the tapped hole in the spring pin and "pull it out" As a well known TR man wrote "only an optimist will attempt this method!" Usually you ended up cutting or burning it out! Maybe the A7 is easier. I don't remember all that activity last time. Time obviously dulls the pain.
But thank you for the advice
David