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Removing Block whilst in car
#1
I have a 1933 box saloon that has been off the road since 1991, 26 years ago .
I think the engine was rebuilt but although it goes like a rocket it does smoke a bit from the valve chest .
I think some rings must be stuck on one cylinder , probably the valves were open on that one during its long rest.
I have tried a few remedies but think the block needs to come off to cure the problem for sure.
Has anyone taken the block off a box saloon with the engine still in the car ??
I dont realy want to take the engine out unless I have to but it may be quicker in the long run.
I am hoping to sell the car but I need to sort out the problem first , unless someone wants to buy the car for £6500 and do the job themselves.
Ian.


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#2
(17-08-2017, 08:05 PM)awentsbury Wrote: I have a 1933 box saloon that has been off the road since 1991, 26 years ago .
I think the engine was rebuilt but although it goes like a rocket it does smoke a bit from the valve chest .
I think some rings must be stuck on one cylinder , probably the valves were open on that one during its long rest.
I have tried a few remedies but think the block needs to come off to cure the problem for sure.
Has anyone taken the block off a box saloon with the engine still in the car ??
I dont realy want to take the engine out unless I have to but it may be quicker in the long run.
I am hoping to sell the car but I need to sort out the problem first , unless someone wants to buy the car for £6500 and do the job themselves.
Ian.

Take the engine out, it's easier in the long run.
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#3
(17-08-2017, 08:12 PM)Ian Sly Wrote:
(17-08-2017, 08:05 PM)awentsbury Wrote: I have a 1933 box saloon that has been off the road since 1991, 26 years ago .
I think the engine was rebuilt but although it goes like a rocket it does smoke a bit from the valve chest .
I think some rings must be stuck on one cylinder , probably the valves were open on that one during its long rest.
I have tried a few remedies but think the block needs to come off to cure the problem for sure.
Has anyone taken the block off a box saloon with the engine still in the car ??
I dont realy want to take the engine out unless I have to but it may be quicker in the long run.
I am hoping to sell the car but I need to sort out the problem first , unless someone wants to buy the car for £6500 and do the job themselves.
Ian.

Take the engine out, it's easier in the long run.
Agreed. Here's a copy of my checklist:
Austin Seven RP Engine/Gearbox removal
·         Disconnect battery
·         Protect front wings/headlamps with old towels/curtains
·         Remove bonnet
·         Remove bonnet stay complete with horn
·         Remove front number plate
·         Remove starting handle
·         Drain radiator
·         Loosen top and bottom hoses at head & water branch
·         Remove Radiator shell and radiator complete with top/bottom hoses
·         Remove gear lever. Stuff gearbox top cover with paper towel.
·         Remove floor mat & propshaft tunnel cover
·         Remove bolts securing propshaft to output flange
·         Remove clutch lever top (or complete lever from release shaft if you haven’t got a modified floor pan )
·         Remove flywheel cover plate
·         Disconnect speedo cable from gearbox
·         Disconnect fuel pipe from fuel pump.
·         Disconnect choke cable and throttle linkage
·         Disconnect oil pipe to dashboard gauge from back of crankcase
·         Disconnect starter cable from starter motor
·         Disconnect starter pull cable from solenoid
·         Disconnect secondary earth cable from cylinder head (if you’ve got one)
·         Disconnect earth strap from timing case
·         Disconnect dynamo cables from dynamo
·         Remove adv/retard lever from distributor
·         Remove HT lead from coil.
·         Disconnect LT lead from distributor
·         Remove four bolts holding exhaust downpipe to manifold
·         Remove n°3 spark plug & replace with lifting hook
·         Remove engine mounting bolts
·         Lift unit clear with hoist tilting unit backwards to clear nose piece and throttle linkage
·         Push car backwards out of the way and place unit on stand/workmate
·         Set handbrake on car once it’s out of the way.
·         Replace flywheel cover to prevent something falling in.
·         Have a cup of tea for a job well done.
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#4
Smoke around the valve chest normally suggests that the valve guides are worn Ian.

Replacing them can be done with the block attached - particularly if they are straight valve guides.
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#5
I removed the block on my 1938 model a couple of weeks ago

I don't think I saved much time but I didn't have a hoist and was worried about hurting my back.

To get to the back block nut I had to remove the floor and flywheel cover so not much different to the above list.

After watching some of Geoff Halstead's videos I decided to set up timelapse for some of the job.  See below.

Cheers

Geoff from Canberra Australia


See

https://youtu.be/RNgN50icuH0
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#6
Great film Geoff!
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#7
(18-08-2017, 09:11 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Great film Geoff!

Thanks.  I will make more videos as I work on the engine.
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#8
Getting the block off is one thing, replacing in place quite another. Very hard on the back trying to check  the oil baffles in place, gasket position etc.  Ditto the other method of feeding block over the rings.

After standing stuck rings common. Various methods have been suggested on Forum to persuade free. Does it fume heavily at the oil filler intake, or mainly in valve chest? Engine  can be run with cover off. Can the problem be traced to one cylinder, by crank handle compression? Or plug appearance? Can one cyl be heard blowing into sump when hand cranked? Etc.

If going to sell and it was an export model, a simple tube into air cleaner might save a lot of work!

The engine can be removed without gearbox but refitting the input splines can be tedious. The engine alone , esp without head and dynamo, is not very heavy.

I have found with seriously worn Sevens and others that blow by may be reasonable to some critcal high speed when the rings seems to suddenly loose control and engine fumes profusely

Mind the rain does not get in the crank handle opening!
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#9
I wouldn't even consider replacing a block with the engine still in the car. It's not that difficult to remove or refit an engine with the gearbox still attached, but it is difficult to replace the block, in situ, with less than four hands. It's one of those jobs that's bound to go wrong. No need to try it - take the engine out.
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#10
I meant to add to my post that I intend to take the rest of the engine out now that I have pulled it apart.
As mentioned above I cannot see an easy way to get it back together in place.
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