Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
Reputation:
7
Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
12-11-2022, 06:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-11-2022, 06:51 PM by Colin Wilks.)
There is quite a lot of advance if the photo of the flywheel ties in with the points just opening on no. 1 cylinder. The rotor arm appears to me to be pointing straight at or a little after no 1 plug lead (with the blob of white paint) and the 1342 sequence appears correct, so either you are still 180° out (which seemed possible given you swapped 1 and 4 and it started!) or you have too much static advance.
Assuming you've sorted getting TDC on the compression stroke and are not now 180° out I would set it up bang on TDC (1/4 on the flywheel at 12:00 o'clock) and give it a go. You can tweek the static advance once it's running by twisting the distributor in its bracket, which I assume is still loose.
Small point. I'm sure you've measured it with a gauge, but the points gap looks a little bit wider than .012", but it may be the photo.
Joined: Jul 2022 Posts: 7 Threads: 1
Reputation:
0
Location: england
Car type: Austin 7 RP saloon 1934
RIGHT !. Dismantled the manifold, new studs and gasket. Rebuilt the card and re did the wiring including bathing the ignition switch. Re built the whole thing with the correct firing order and nothing. Checked the coil and no fed. Put a wire from the battery to the coil and it fired!!!!!. Not the best as far as running but ran and with a bit of distributor moving around it revved up. So on the right path. Can anyone advise where I might get a replacement ignition switch from as even the lights do not work. A big thankyou to everyone that has tried and advised me. I am hoping with a bit more fettling the thing might run a bit better.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 602 Threads: 19
Reputation:
10
Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
If you have the normal Lucas PLC type switch, it contains three separate sections: Charge rate switch, Lighting switch and Ignition switch.
The only things driven by the Ignition switch section are the Ignition, The Ignition Warning Lamp, The Petrol Gauge, the Stop Lamp and the Trafficators
It seems unlikely to me that there is a simultaneous fault in more than one section which would cause the lights to be inoperative, though anything is possible. The ignition section is internally less "chunky" than the other two and therefore less reliable after 80 years. I suggest you carefully check the wiring before condemning the switch.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 507 Threads: 129
Reputation:
2
Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
I have followed this post with interest glad to see you making progress well done.
I have had problems with the plc 2 switch.
To resolve this I removed the switch and examined the various connections made in
different positions the best way to do this is with a simple multimeter
John Cornforth posted a excellent diagram which fully explained the switch which is
available on the forum.
Best Regards
Tim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,622 Threads: 23
Reputation:
15
Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
17-11-2022, 11:07 AM
(This post was last modified: 17-11-2022, 11:08 AM by Ivor Hawkins.)
I too had similar switch problems and after careful cleaning everything worked fine, however, the key part of the switch was badly worn and I simply wired parallel with a good quality flick switch so I can use either the switch or the key...problem solved.
Ps. that was after a lot of helpful guidance from John Cornforth, I hasten to add!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,382 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
If you haven't already tried, then DON'T take the PLC switch apart without putting it inside a plastic bag first. Otherwise you may well lose something. Like Ivor, I have by-passed the ignition switch part of the Lucas control switch, and have a flick switch mounted elsewhere to control ignition on/off
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,332 Threads: 34
Reputation:
30
Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
Very off topic but I’m reminded that another forum member and I have an interest in decent cameras. A long time ago he sent me instructions for servicing my Leica 111c. They began “first, pitch your tent on the lawn”
Alan Fairless
Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 88 Threads: 5
Reputation:
0
Location: Sheffield UK
Car type: 1937 Austin 7 Nippy
If you haven't already tried, then DON'T take the PLC switch apart without putting it inside a plastic bag first.
I couldn't agree more - it's surprising how far everything flies (not in the same direction either!) - if only I had been advised before I tried to fix mine many years ago...
Fortunately, I managed to find all the bits and pieces of my Nippy switch eventually and managed to get things working again without really knowing what had come from where. Whether I did it right or not I don't know but it's done what it's meant to do for about 30 years in its current state so will leave well alone.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
May I add my own comments on the plc switch. Don’t take it apart. Somewhere in my garage is a bag with a switch in pieces therein After many attempts at reassembly I just gave up as I found out that I had only two hands and that was not enough. Luckily I had a spare.
John Mason,
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.