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I have a flywheel with teeth which has never been near the 1935, 1 5/16" engine I intend to use it on.
I'm aware of the issues of flywheels getting too far down the crankshaft if you are a bit *too eager with matching the mating surfaces.
Are there any measurements I should be aware of to assess whether firstly the flywheel is OK... and how should I proceed to ensure that I don't enter the above (*) camp! TIA...
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ok, thanks. So the limiting factor is entirely whether it actually pulls down onto its taper (rather than getting stuck on the boss), much as per checking about the key not being too tall in the keyway?
I had wondered if there was something to do with the clutch side too.
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You will need enough clearance to fit the thrower
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
You need to be careful not to introduce swash into the flywheel so do a DTI check, and that the taper doesn’t protrude beyond the flywheel face so you can’t tighten it up.
Alan Fairless
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looked up swash flywheel and it didn't even come up on Google...!
I presume that's something to do with being off centre, but how WOULD you introduce swash whilst lapping?
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By letting your lapping pressure favour one quadrant of the flywheel
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understood. thanks.
Is Engineers blue going to be useful for this?
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Check with blue first. Note that later flywheels were releived in the middle, so any clearance in the middle is better not eliminated. If any error is mainly in the flywheel may be able to initially sort on a scrap crank