08-05-2023, 09:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-05-2023, 09:28 PM by David Stepney.)
Dennis,
I accept that you have spread copper slip on the head and block mating surfaces, but (and this may be just the photos) the block in particular does not look to be clean enough for me. When doing any 'head job' I clean the mating surfaces with fine emery until, every bit of crud is removed and the faces are clean and bright. I then go over them with a bit of wire wool. I do the same with the head.You will have to remove the studs to do the job on the block thoroughly, and I chase the stud holes with a tap to make sure that the studs fit properly. It is surprising how cruddy the threads get.
I too use copper slip to coat the gasket on both sides before fitting it and then torque the head nuts down to between 18 and 20 lbs/ft, going round them at least three times until they are all snug and tight. I torque them down again once the engine has been run up to temperature and then allowed to grow cold. It surprising how slack the head nuts can become in service. It may be worth checking them again after a few hundred miles. I check mine every major service (5k) and invariably one or two have come slack.
I last had the head off my car several thousand miles ago (probably getting on for 10k but I am too lazy to check through my records) and I have had no problems so far (touch wood). As with all things engineering, cleanliness is next to Godliness and reliability.
You shouldn't have any oil up there; the head is only a cover to keep the compression in.
Please forgive me if I am teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope my comments help.
I accept that you have spread copper slip on the head and block mating surfaces, but (and this may be just the photos) the block in particular does not look to be clean enough for me. When doing any 'head job' I clean the mating surfaces with fine emery until, every bit of crud is removed and the faces are clean and bright. I then go over them with a bit of wire wool. I do the same with the head.You will have to remove the studs to do the job on the block thoroughly, and I chase the stud holes with a tap to make sure that the studs fit properly. It is surprising how cruddy the threads get.
I too use copper slip to coat the gasket on both sides before fitting it and then torque the head nuts down to between 18 and 20 lbs/ft, going round them at least three times until they are all snug and tight. I torque them down again once the engine has been run up to temperature and then allowed to grow cold. It surprising how slack the head nuts can become in service. It may be worth checking them again after a few hundred miles. I check mine every major service (5k) and invariably one or two have come slack.
I last had the head off my car several thousand miles ago (probably getting on for 10k but I am too lazy to check through my records) and I have had no problems so far (touch wood). As with all things engineering, cleanliness is next to Godliness and reliability.
You shouldn't have any oil up there; the head is only a cover to keep the compression in.
Please forgive me if I am teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope my comments help.