20-09-2018, 10:32 PM
A bit (little)more progress. I tried the new stud and rivets to make sure all holes would line up..........oh tissssh......the rivets were too thick to go into the flange holes. How to make them thiner? I did not want to hammer them all the way as that would just scrape up a small collar that would prevent the countersunk head from fitting nicely in the flange countersink and would probably bend the rivets anyway. I hammered the end of the rivet into the flange till the end was just flush with the other side.......this was so that the rivet was held tight.........then a thin strip of fine emery was used back and forth all round under the head to make the shaft thinner. The rivet was punched out and the end with the graunched up collar was dressed with a file to remove the collar. Once the rivet was a tightish fit it was pushed right into the flange and it was seen that the countersunk head did not fit properly into the countersunk flange hole and anyway the diameter of the rivet head was larger than the surface diameter of the flange hole.....rivet in drill and filed to reduce head dia. Rivet back into flange and underside supported on vice and head was hammered in to conform to the countersunk hole.
Flange put onto hub and about 4mm of rivet sticking out. I squashed the rivet in the vice by a fair bit then with rivet head resting on vice jaws and overhang supported on blocks off bench the hub flange was made parallel to vice jaws. I used a fairly thin sharp centre punch to punch the end of the rivet (because end of rivet so near the stud a thick centre punch can't be used otherwise even the small amount protruding tends to get bent towards the stud.). after a few blows to satisfy myself that rivet was fully tightened I further squashed the rivet in the jaws and then with much patience filed off till flush with the hub flange surface. I am rather miffed at having to go through all that with new parts.
I should point out that with the hydraulic brake conversion the stud flange only just clears the end of the cylinder so the rivet heads must not be allowed to protrude above the stud flange head...........quick spray of etch primer on new stud flange/rivet heads..........and so to bed said Z.
Hopefully will just have to give quick squirt of engine enamel over primer tomorrow and will be able to fit both hubs without any further bothers.
I suppose I could put a shim between bearing and axle shoulder to just move hub outwards and allow a bit more clearance between stud flange and cylinder....(the brake drum outer edge would be moved nearer to the edge of the brake lining but it is about1/8" away so plenty of room for adjustment.....but now rivet head is more or less flush I don't think it will be necessary.......has previously run many thousands of miles, so unless new cylinders are just that bigger all should be well.......maybe.......possibly......soon see tomorrow.
Flange put onto hub and about 4mm of rivet sticking out. I squashed the rivet in the vice by a fair bit then with rivet head resting on vice jaws and overhang supported on blocks off bench the hub flange was made parallel to vice jaws. I used a fairly thin sharp centre punch to punch the end of the rivet (because end of rivet so near the stud a thick centre punch can't be used otherwise even the small amount protruding tends to get bent towards the stud.). after a few blows to satisfy myself that rivet was fully tightened I further squashed the rivet in the jaws and then with much patience filed off till flush with the hub flange surface. I am rather miffed at having to go through all that with new parts.
I should point out that with the hydraulic brake conversion the stud flange only just clears the end of the cylinder so the rivet heads must not be allowed to protrude above the stud flange head...........quick spray of etch primer on new stud flange/rivet heads..........and so to bed said Z.
Hopefully will just have to give quick squirt of engine enamel over primer tomorrow and will be able to fit both hubs without any further bothers.
I suppose I could put a shim between bearing and axle shoulder to just move hub outwards and allow a bit more clearance between stud flange and cylinder....(the brake drum outer edge would be moved nearer to the edge of the brake lining but it is about1/8" away so plenty of room for adjustment.....but now rivet head is more or less flush I don't think it will be necessary.......has previously run many thousands of miles, so unless new cylinders are just that bigger all should be well.......maybe.......possibly......soon see tomorrow.