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Does anyone have insight as to whether original Ulster tunnels were riveted to the floor pan or welded? I have to replace the tunnel on my CC Rep, which was spot welded in. Riveting would be easier, but I'm not sure if it is more effective.
Erich in Seattle
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Location: Scotchland
How is the tunnel on the EA you bought from my friend attached Erich?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,999 Threads: 167
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
No doubt people with more recent experience will be along soon, but I'm pretty sure that mine (which was an early one - body no 42) was riveted ... but it was nearly fifty years ago!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 685 Threads: 111
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I'll have to ask Chris, Ruairidh. Andy had to replace the tunnel as the existing one had been cut away to accommodate the 4 speed g/b and a couple of other mods. I don't know if Andy riveted or welded.
Erich in Seattle
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Erich
Ours, body no 135, has the tunnel riveted to the floor. There is a lip on the tunnel and the floor is riveted on top of the lip. It does tend to work loose around the front by the gearbox though! And yes it is original, although as I was tempted to remark on the bonnet rubber thread I am not convinced that any two cars are exactly the same!
Tony
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My car is as Tony's except where the tunnel has been repaired. I endorse his closing remarks!
All the best,
Stuart
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Yes, understood about no two cars being exactly the same, and agree. The tails seem to vary, with some being arched and others being more flat on the top. Would love to have been privy to conversations in the competition department when they were being built. "Roger, you've got it all wrong, the arch makes the tail stiffer". "Not at all, the flatter top is much better". Thank you Tony about the tunnel flanges. I wasn't sure if they sit under or on top of the floors.
Erich in Seattle
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Hi Erich. I've only ever restored three Ulsters that coiuld rightfully claim to be original and all three had the tunnel rivetted. Good Luck & Cheers, Bill in Oz