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Austinsevenfriends
New brakes binding - Printable Version

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New brakes binding - John Mims - 08-11-2018

I've just fitted relined front brake shoes, with new endaps. New brake shoe springs, cams and bushes. The brake drums are new cast ones. Top pivots were secure.

When shimming the top pivot, I followed the advice in Woodrow, to pack them until the shoes were "just touching the drum", before replacing the hub.

With the hub back on (with new bearings) and the drum screwed down tightly, about 2/3 of a turn is free, but the remaining third is way too tight.

As I said, they are new cast drums so will be perfectly round, so can anybody explain a) what is happening, and b) how I rectify it?

Thanks
John


RE: New brakes binding - Reckless Rat - 08-11-2018

It's probably the linings that aren't sitting quite right. Take the drum off and put some chalk on the linings and rotate the wheel - if there's a high spot the chalk will come off, then just give it a rub with some sandpaper and try again.


RE: New brakes binding - Zetomagneto - 08-11-2018

(08-11-2018, 07:57 PM)Hi John Mims Wrote: I've just fitted relined front brake shoes, with new endaps. New brake shoe springs, cams and bushes. The brake drums are new cast ones. Top pivots were secure.

When shimming the top pivot, I followed the advice in Woodrow, to pack them until the shoes were "just touching the drum", before replacing the hub.

With the hub back on (with new bearings) and the drum screwed down tightly, about 2/3 of a turn is free, but the remaining third is way too tight.

As I said, they are new cast drums so will be perfectly round, so can anybody explain a) what is happening, and b) how I rectify it?

Thanks
John
Have you tried it with the wheel back on and all 3 nuts tight, sounds as though the drum may not be square to the shoes


RE: New brakes binding - John Mims - 08-11-2018

(08-11-2018, 08:20 PM)Reckless Rat Wrote: It's probably the linings that aren't sitting quite right. Take the drum off and put some chalk on the linings and rotate the wheel - if there's a high spot the chalk will come off, then just give it a rub with some sandpaper and try again.

Thanks, Reckless Rat. I'll give it a try. Presumably the dust from modern linings isn't too toxic?

(08-11-2018, 10:50 PM)Zetomagneto Wrote: Have you tried it with the wheel back on and all 3 nuts tight, sounds as though the drum may not be square to the shoes

I had tightened all three nuts, but only onto the drum, not with the wheel on. Will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks

John


RE: New brakes binding - Tony Press - 09-11-2018

(08-11-2018, 07:57 PM)John Mims Wrote: I've just fitted relined front brake shoes, with new endaps. New brake shoe springs, cams and bushes. The brake drums are new cast ones. Top pivots were secure.

When shimming the top pivot, I followed the advice in Woodrow, to pack them until the shoes were "just touching the drum", before replacing the hub.

With the hub back on (with new bearings) and the drum screwed down tightly, about 2/3 of a turn is free, but the remaining third is way too tight.

As I said, they are new cast drums so will be perfectly round, so can anybody explain a) what is happening, and b) how I rectify it?

Thanks
John

John,

You say-

"When shimming the top pivot, I followed the advice in Woodrow, to pack them until the shoes were "just touching the drum", before replacing the hub."

I assume these are aluminium shoes - I believe the linings should touch the drum with the 'brake cam levers' vertical, so they move forward when released, allowing braking effort to be applied when pulled back to vertical - it is useful if the front brakes are a little slack so the cams don't pull tight when the wheels are turned. 

Just my thoughts.


RE: New brakes binding - Derek Sheldon - 09-11-2018

I made this gadget to take off the high spots on new shoes, it works well.
   


RE: New brakes binding - John Mims - 09-11-2018

(09-11-2018, 02:10 AM)Tony Press Wrote: John,

I assume these are aluminium shoes - I believe the linings should touch the drum with the 'brake cam levers' vertical, so they move forward when released, allowing braking effort to be applied when pulled back to vertical - it is useful if the front brakes are a little slack so the cams don't pull tight when the wheels are turned. 

Just my thoughts.

Yes, Tony, aluminium shoes. Thanks for the tip about adjustment

(09-11-2018, 07:52 AM)Derek Sheldon Wrote: I made this gadget to take off the high spots on new shoes, it works well.

Neat gadget, Derek. 

I have to admit that I'm struggling to see how a high spot would only bind in one place unless there was a degree of ovality in the drum. I'll have to give it some more thought.

Again, thank you both for your help

John


RE: New brakes binding - Ruairidh Dunford - 09-11-2018

I use this tool to ensure that the shoes are sitting straight and that the surface is level.

Works extremely well.

   

   


RE: New brakes binding - Jamie - 09-11-2018

Ruaridh,

"I use this tool to ensure that the shoes are sitting straight and that the surface is level."

At the risk of showing my ignorance, how does this work?

Regards,

Jamie.


RE: New brakes binding - John Mims - 09-11-2018

(09-11-2018, 10:32 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: I use this tool to ensure that the shoes are sitting straight and that the surface is level.

Works extremely well.

Is that a roller, Ruairidh, or a piece of bar?