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All Alloy Cup progress - Printable Version +- Austinsevenfriends (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum) +-- Forum: Austin Seven Friends Forum (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=1) +--- Forum: Forum chat... (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=14) +--- Thread: All Alloy Cup progress (/showthread.php?tid=1822) |
RE: AllAlloyCup progress - wild_willy - 23-12-2018 (18-12-2018, 08:59 PM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: Technical Query Try here: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/291/category/245 RE: AllAlloyCup progress - Tony Press - 23-12-2018 (23-12-2018, 02:02 AM)wild_willy Wrote:(18-12-2018, 08:59 PM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: Technical Query Looks good but- too big in both ways- the Lucas posts are 1 inch apart (these are 1 1/2" between posts ) and the smallest rating is 30 amp- don't we need 15 amp fuses ? RE: AllAlloyCup progress - AllAlloyCup - 23-12-2018 My physics should be better really but If you had a rectangular flat fuse rated at 30 amp And you cut it in half, along its length would that then give you a 2 x 15 amp fuses? Presumably any fuse wire needs to be rated at 6v? As it’s the power = V x A that would determine the energy needed to melt the fuse material. Someone smarter than me will know? Regards Bill G RE: AllAlloyCup progress - AustinWood - 23-12-2018 I think it's the current and resistance that rates it. I^2 x R is the formula. RE: AllAlloyCup progress - Steve Jones - 23-12-2018 Yes, the voltage isn't relevant. If it was, your domestic fuse wire for 240v would be 1/4" diameter. Steve RE: AllAlloyCup progress - jansens - 23-12-2018 Fuse wire doesn't have a voltage rating. Glass fuses do but that's there to indicate what voltage a BLOWN fuse will with stand without arcing over. If it's not seen I would just solder some solid core copper wire to the legs of a standard automotive blade fuse of the right amperage from a modern car and wrap the wires around the posts. Simon RE: AllAlloyCup progress - AllAlloyCup - 23-12-2018 Thanks Simon That’s a good plan as the posts are enclosed Under a metal cover. Regards Bill G RE: AllAlloyCup progress - Tony Press - 23-12-2018 (23-12-2018, 09:46 AM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: My physics should be better really but No - see the discussion (s) in earlier forum posts. RE: AllAlloyCup progress - jansens - 23-12-2018 I'd wrap the wire around the pins a few times before soldering to give a good mechanical connection then just flow a bit of solder over to make it all tight. Simon RE: AllAlloyCup progress - andrew34ruby - 24-12-2018 (23-12-2018, 09:46 AM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: My physics should be better really but Bill, the power V x A is the total power that creates heat or magnetism anywhere in the circuit. Most of this is at the headlight/horn/motor and not at the fuse. To calculate the heat produced at the fuse you use the formula Amps squared x resistance in ohms. So voltage doesn't come into it. And yes, slicing your 30 amp fuse would make two 15 amp fuses. You would be doubling the resistance, but also halving the power required to 'blow' the fuse. Hope I got this right! I was very good at O level physics, but that was 48 years ago. |