Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 595 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi Andy
If you raise the CR, and possibly also raise the effective compression by restoring valve sealing etc, you will increase the peak pressure in the cylinders when they fire. Its this pressure peak that generates harsh or rattly noises, especially around 2000 RPM / 30 MPH in top when the throttle is open for acceleration or hill climbing. It's not actually pinking if you are using normal petrol, its octane is way more than needed for a seven even with a "high" compression head.
Reducing the advance a tad will tame the peak pressure without dropping the mean pressure very much. Set the timing to wherever the engine feels happiest on the road.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,697 Threads: 46
Reputation:
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
littlie well kneaded plasticine will tell you if you have enough valve clearance.,
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 326 Threads: 1
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Location: Bristol
On an assembled engine turn over on handle untill valve is at full lift then lever up the tappet to check how much clearance between valve and c/head. Terry.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 757 Threads: 32
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Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
Finally had the opportunity to have a free couple of hours to tinker.
Timing all sorted after a few runs and minor adjustments and all running nicely now. Had a couple of runs out and head seems to have settled.
But...
I have had an oil leak from the rear of the engine for a while now. I had previously had a loose nut between block and crankcase which had resulted in similar, I also wondered if it was the valve cover seal.
As I had added water to the area from removing the head I thought I would take the valve cover off to check and reseal etc and investigate the oil leak. Long story short, the nut was tight and I resealed the cover. In then cleaning everything up and running the engine the source of the oil became clear:
I haven't had to replace an oil pump before but if my understanding is correct this is just a 'loose' cover with gasket underneath and which is held in place by the block?
If so, other than removing the block to gain access to renew the seal it seems I have little choice but to add something like RTV silicon in the hope that it covers and seals?
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,406 Threads: 226
Reputation:
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Location: Scotchland
Clean the surface with carb/brake cleaner (compressed air helps) and smear a small amount Sikaflex around the joint area.
Leave over night and it should stem the flow…
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 757 Threads: 32
Reputation:
16
Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
Thanks Ruairidh
I guessed gunk of some type was my short term option. Will give it a go.
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 757 Threads: 32
Reputation:
16
Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
Just to round this one off. Sikaflex applied last night. Run this morning and nice and dry.
All I need now is that Indian summer we have been promised.
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!