Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,131 Threads: 66
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Hello all, Following on from my thread on “Re assembling rear brake shoes.” I have given up on trying to fit the brake springs with the hubs in place. Following a lot of reading on how to dismantle and reassemble the hubs I was surprised how easily they came off. The car has been in my possession for over 20 years and have never been touched in that time. Split pin out and a socket on the nut which came undone easily without use of the power bar. I fitted the hub puller and again the outer hub came off the taper easily with only the 12 inch ratchet. No need to strike the bolt in the puller to break the taper on the hub. The inner hub was the same the nut came off easily and was not tight once the lock washer had been straightened. (I did expect this as I had read it only needed to be just nipped up on assembly.). I fitted the break shoes and springs and started to reassemble the inner hub with the rear nut just nipped up and lock washer bent down. Checked the hub which spun easily and then re fitted the outer hub with woodruff key and tightened the nut tight but not fully with a power bar. Thinking the job almost done I found that the rear of the wheel studs caught on the brake cam stopping rotation of the hub.
I cannot see anything I have done when reassembling to cause this other than tightening the hub tight onto the taper.
All suggestions gratefully received as to how to rectify this problems
It goes without saying the hub could be turned freely before strip down.
Yours John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 78 Threads: 19
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Just did this operation. All I did was to install the lug nuts and tighten. This pulled the hub and the bearing plate together eliminating the interference.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Without the outer hub on, the location of the inner hub isn't that well defined, or obvious to someone unfamiliar with the car. If you use a felt washer particularly so, as its not necessarily obvious how far to beat the bearing into the inner hub (You should beat it until it bottoms).
A quick check is what when you fit the inner and bearing to the axle, the inner hub should rotate freely. If it doesn't the bearing needs to go further into the hub (assuming the brakes are correctly assembled).
When you put the outer hub on, (incidentally I gently tap this on and home with a soft hammer), this locates accurately the position of itself against the outer race of the bearing, itself fixed to the axle housing. You need then to do 2 things.
1. Pull the halfshaft into the taper and tighten the nut (and pin if you follow OEM practice)
2. Ensure the inner hub flange is pulled tight against the outer hub flange. Frankly they should allready be touching, with a joint of some sort in between (I just use card). Be carefull here as if you have a big gap pulling them together with the wheel nuts is going to distort one or both flanges, and thats not good. You will basically be trying to pull the inner hub further on the bearing using the thin flange.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 704 Threads: 12
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I have never had to pull the hub apart to change brake shoes !!! or to re assemble which I do as a set, shoes and springs all connected then wiggle it over the hub into place. There is a knack to doing it. A bit of stout string and a screwdriver is another method to pull the spring into place but I find its a bit risky to fingers.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
02-03-2022, 07:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-03-2022, 08:18 PM by Bob Culver.)
When the felt seal and surface was unworn the inner hub would turn the same whether full on or not. . The outer ring of the race should be clamped axially. When apart it is worth assembling clean and checking the gap.The gasket of whatever should compress to less than this, although less critical at the rear than front. (Or can add the two depths using a vernier calliper, and compare with the bearing plus washer. I dunno what the tolerance of the recesses are; one day I will go thru my hoard and compare)
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,131 Threads: 66
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Hello all, Thanks for all the information. Who is an IDIOT then. I read Hedds full instructions and realised I had reassembled everything correctly so could not understand why the hub would only turn a short way back and forwards before locking up. I wrongly assumed the wheel studs were catching the brake cam. Having stripped down and reassembled a couple of times I realised it was in fact the halfshafts that were stopping the rotation. A minute of thinking I had problems in the diff I checked to see if the car was in gear. Yes this IDIOT had been trying to turn the hubs by hand against the engine compression. Still pleased all is well though.
Has anybody else like me missed the obviousness when doing maintenance. Perhaps we could create an amusing thread.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,481 Threads: 17
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Yes, John. Many times have I failed to check the obvious first!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,449 Threads: 21
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Anyone who claims never to have made a silly mistake, hasn’t done anything!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,246 Threads: 33
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35
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Aye, ask Vladimir Putin... (coat, hat, door.)
