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Loose Wheel Bearing
#11
besides, so long as you don't have any clearance, its got a gurt nut that clamps it against a shoulder.....
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#12
The Austin 7 wheel bearings have what is called 'a stationary inner ring' - there is little tendency for the inner ring to 'walk' around the axle because the load is always directed to one point, so a loose fit here is not a great problem.
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#13
Thanks for all the advice. 
The inner ring has definitely been "walking around", although maybe in the time of a previous owner. Consequently there is erosion of the stub that it is to sit on. I take the point that the nut should hold the inner ring tight against the shoulder and stop the "walking". Probably somebody in the past didn't tighten the nut adequately. Because of the loosness of the inner ring, I have reservations about the nut preventing wobbling of the bearing.
Consequently I have opted for using the Bearing Fit 641.
Regards 
Graham
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#14
PS Bob, I also liked your idea of a blob of solder at the top of the stub. That's a good place to put the solder because the load will be taken on the bottom of the stub.  However, I would have to use a gas flame to get enough heat into the stub and I was concerned about fire risk in the axle casing where some oil had leaked through. Also I was nervous about using a flame so close to the petrol tank.
Cheers 
Graham
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#15
Out of balance wheel or a damaged bearing at some time.
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#16
The biggest problem is not using the correct size spanner on the bearing retaining nut, I've seen countless nuts mutilated by pipe grips and hammers and chisels which will not tighten the nut leaving the bearing to slop around. These can be found at car boot sales and don't cast a fortune then you can dismantle (I cant find dissemble in my dictionary) and assemble the nut with confidence.
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#17
and re-mantle ?
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#18
The nuts are awkwardly large. Tools were expensive whereas most now have a formidable collection. I presume Dave is referring to the old style F shifting spanners which open wide (handy for plumbing) Most are so batterd and so cheap moderate encouragement with a hammer not unreasonable. The pipe wrench users are resourceful. Wrenches new and especially old now very 
cheap. And if far from home a drift can be useful; cold chisels esp sharp ones are a mite crude.
A heavy bit would easily solder without any direct heat. According to NSK manual a worse than Normal tolerance is appropriate for such ball races as allows for axle defllections (not to mention bent axle shaft or casing or wobbly hub) So worn races, provided not rough or pitted, fine.
Incidentally it always surprise me how thin the casing is where it supports the bearing.

Many will be surprised by the arrangemnt on many front axles 1955 to 1980 and beyond. Taper roller bearings are retained by a nut finger tight or less and a split pin. Over time the axle wears somewhat and, with the recommended clearance, makes for a quite loose wheel. On my 180000 mile Hillman I maladjust and readjust for evey 6 monthly w.o.f. It avoids argument and consequent pin pricking failure of all else. I have several times been told to replace the bearings..if I had conceded could have spent a fortune.
As has been pointed out before it is important the large thin washer for the felt seal is always retained; otherwise the bearing will move sideways in the hub.
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#19
that's an upgrade to your fireplace Tony
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#20
So dismantle is pulling it down ?
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