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Help with Ruby front Brakes
#11
Just replace the original bearings with the sealed ones and use the felt seal and washer.
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#12
Thanks for the Info, I'll use the felt seal having soaked it in thick oil or talloy first.
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#13
vague memory that the felt retaining plate forms part of the pinch that holds the inner bearing from rotating.......just very vague thought??

Dennis
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#14
I've decided to fit new felt seals softened with tallow as the modern lip seal might drag due to being dry with using sealed bearings.
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#15
A good tip with any rubber seals is to use a rag soaked in MOLYSLIP to rub well into the rubber seal. That includs the hydraulic brake cylinder sels.

Dennis
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#16
Unless going wading the hubs require grease in little more then the bearings. Even with orig bearings definitely not pump hub full. Sealing requirments in the front then very modest. The screws must be distinctly below the surface. Over the years steel shoes get filed to get even seating etc and can get very poor seating when rearranged. Wasteful to abrade shoes to correct major errors. If a good fit origianlly parts best kept in same positon. The steel can be built up with weld and refitted. The steel washer is essential as the bearing must be clamped by the hub halves. Very thick gasket must be avoided.The large bearing should be a snug fit in housing; awkward if not; many been centre dotted....
The rear hub prone to diff oil . A much reduced diff oil level recommended. Sealed bearings and modern seal all assist. But if no sign of diff oil leave alone. Save your sealed bearings and fancy seal for the rear!
Tinkering with rear is more involved and requires breaking the axle taper...another story.
At the rear the screws help stop the flood of diff oil onto the linings whn the wheel removed! Many moderns have no screws despite hydraulic brakes which fail if the wheel and drum detach...
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