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Ruby ignition warning light
#1
Has anyone experienced the ignition warning light on a Ruby failing to work? The bulb has been tested and is OK; the ignition and charging systems both work (having worked out where the wire I pulled off went) but no red light. A clue: when pulling out the dash panel (don't you just love those seven inaccessible 4BA screws) there was a short-circuit and the main fuse blew. Having persuaded all the instruments and dash lights back into life, just this one little problem remains.
Another question: on the Seven, does the ignition light bulb (2.5-volts, 0.2 Amps working through  30-Ohm resistor) provide a "trickle charge" to get the dynamo charging?
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#2
Because of the way the ignition light is wired it does allow a very small current through the dynamo, but that has nothing to do with getting the dynamo charging. It is the small amount of residual magnetism which does that. When the ignition lamp has failed the dynamo should still charge. If the bulb is sound with good connections it may be that the wire wound resistor around the holder has broken. If this proves to be the case I suggest soldering a direct connection across the terminations of the resistor and using the lowest wattage 12 volt bulb you can get (old fashioned panel light bulb) in place of the original 2.5 volt. This will glow adequately when you switch on, and go out the same as its predecessor when the dynamo starts to cahrge.
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#3
Ref the BA screws and the faf trying to put the nuts on, I now use rivnuts to hold the panel, far quicker and no risk of pulling the wires off.
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#4
Hello Robert, thank you very nuch for the advice. I will give that a try.

(13-08-2021, 12:36 PM)Nigel Ricardo Wrote: Ref the BA screws and the faf trying to put the nuts on, I now use rivnuts to hold the panel, far quicker and no risk of pulling the wires off.

Thanks, Nigel. Were the "rivinuts" you used metric - and the size?
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#5
Yes they were metric, the equivalent to 2 BA so they looked the same from the front
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#6
(13-08-2021, 09:21 PM)Nigel Ricardo Wrote: Yes they were metric, the equivalent to 2 BA so they looked the same from the front
Thanks for that. The smallest I can find is 3 mm - might you have a link to where you sourced the rivet part  and the screws?
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