Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 613 Threads: 7
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Location: queensland
I only have the 'bolt cutter' style of swage tool although the longer 'direct to wire fitting' is used with reliability amongst the sailing fraternity. I never purchased that type as the tool was quite expensive. I have faith in both systems, the long one being the best for simplicity, strength, lightness.
I think elongation of the thimble is a non issue as the turnbuckle can readjust.
First time I have seen the DIY ends so no experience there, looks good, maybe heavier (bounce).
This subject came up in the old forum where kilo strain capacity was stated and generally regarded as being more than could be generated by a Gorilla on the pedal.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 57 Threads: 4
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That is excactly what I intended to do, but 8MM fork end turnbucles have 8mm clevice pins, 8mm eyed end turnbucles do not have 8mm eyes suitable for clevis pins, they have 13mm eyes for a rope or cable to loop through. If you know a supplier of eyed turnbucles with an eye the same size as the nominal screw size I would be glad to hear of it.
Cliff.
If you buy one turnbuckle with forked ends and another with eyed ends, you can make two turnbuckles, each with a fork one end and an eye the other end, avoiding the need for the link.
John
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Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 177 Threads: 1
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Also look at mcgillmotorsport,they list turnbuckles.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,247 Threads: 360
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Car type:
but aren't we doing one each side? It also seems the often, the reason for a new cable is the fact that the adjustment bit has unravelled... so this should allow continued use by lopping 4" off the same cable.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 701 Threads: 12
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If you have coupled brakes you only need one rigging screw on the right hand side. the front brakes are self balancing (sort of )
What you need is enough slack in the rear right cable that the rear left which has the most losses and the rear right actually come on together when you press the brake pedal, you then bring the front brakes up to work in harmony. If you do this with the car unloaded and static they will never be correct. I dive the car on a bit of grass with the front brakes slack and try and get even skidding on the back then wind the front brakes up until I am happy.
The handbrake will never work evenly on the back brakes adjusted like this but it should be up to MOT standard on the front.
I have locked the front brakes up on the rolling road in the past. this is because the car is static once you are on the move you get the reverse servo effect as the front axle twists and lets the brakes off.
