rear brake cable adjustment adaptions?

[JonE]

Cliff - so are these two creative solutions you came up with independently over time? If so which would you use in preference now or do both have different ideal positions on a car?

[David.H]

Thanks for the hint Terrytuned. Two things...I can't find these ends supplied separately , who does supply? Also how is the ct cable end hed in place? Is it clamped by the bolt a bit like a choke cable?

[Peter Sweeney]

Beware when using the clamps on cables that are necked down to a smaller diameter. this leaves less than 1mm of metal holding the threaded part to the clamp. the new one in the photo parted company without any resistance being felt using a short Austin size spanner. I cut the shank of a new HT bolt and left it full diameter which works fine.

[Cliff Ringrose]

Hello Jon.
These are both recent ideas. The first one I came up with while re-asembling the chasis of a '33 Box that I am helping restore, and made the adjusting a lot easier. It is based on the one pictured below which is fitted to my special. This must date from the '50s or '60s. I have no idea where the clamp on screw comes from. Does anybody recognise it.

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The second I have not actually used yet, but the plan is to avoid having to diconnect from the brake arm every time it is adjusted. The main drawback is its bulk. I am sure a 6mm. one would be up to the job, but that would mean 6mm. clevis pins,and 8mm. pins are interchangable with the Austin 5/16" ones.
My ideal solution would be a single screw as in the first one, but with a swiveling clamp for the cable. I have not found anything comercialy available, and I would not trust a home made connector, but if I do come upwith anything I will add it to this post.
I have the adjustable cable on the left rear brake.
Cliff.

[Terrytuned]

David obtainable from A7components part no. BN77a Rear brake cable clevis,pin & clamp, not had any problems like the one in the above photo. Terry.

[Terry McGrath]

Certainly a neat slim turnbuckle arrangement attached to the "cup" at the rear end of the back cables would make fine adjustment SO much easier on non-Girling brakes. An opportunity for our cherished suppliers perhaps?

[JonE]

Not so much an opportunity as a replacement of what has been gradually lost from spec over the years, like 3 speed pattern clutch toggle levers. Here are some early adjustables, along with some of the bits which I wonder could be used to create an adjuster.
I was also looking at the modern front brake line, and that has an attachment to one of the cups... of which something similar would suffice.
But yes, it would be better if the adjuster were behind the wheel rather than at the front end.    

[JonE]

I've bought some M6 turnbuckles (4.50 each - cheaper than an Austin 7 adjuster!) to see if they can be safely drilled out to 5/16 to allow this sort of arrangement, which draws on some of the findings/ideas of other thread contributors. Using M8 would fit straight but they are heavier, more expensive - and possibly have too much adjustment. Creating wire rope loops seems an unnecessary hassle when you can get the right ends to suit what is there already. Another advantage is this will successfully allow re-use of adjustable SWB cables which have become too short as a result of fraying ends. Any thoughts on problems, or further improvements before I try and assemble as per diagram? 
Gary Edwards has also ordered some non-swage connectors (they have a central steel "plug" which one places over the central metal core of the wire rope and then bends the outer wires over to create a joint potentially stronger than the swaged ones) which will make an even more finessed result without having to integrate the current adjustable cable point, which is probably the weakest part of the cable. It would also allow you to reuse non-adjustable cables which have been inspected for corrosion and breakages of wire threads.
Incidentally, had an interesting conversation with Keith Murray who used to work for the company which produced Austin 7 brake cables. Around 1929, they had lots of problems with the original wire ropes which had a non-metal, fibre core - presumably cheaper to produce. These did not shed retained water and rotted out, forcing Austin to change to full metal construction. So worth checking - I had an example of an earlier (or more cheaply constructed) one.
     

[squeak]

Jon
I would rather see you forget the adjustable clevis and the double male link, put a properly swaged end on the cable with a tiny thimble and double swage. 
I like the idea of using the turnbuckle at the crosshaft end to reduce bounce in the cable, those turnbuckles have plenty of adjustment. Swages are cheap.
Mark where the BEND has to be on your Austin cable with masking tape, for the thimble, then give the cable to your local marine chandler, let him cut it.

[JonE]

ok, good thought. What are your thoughts on these though, which would get rid of the thimble entirely? Of course, this 'male' will be available as a swage item too but comments on its structural integrity?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTGB_kfTxUg&t=4s