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Wheel Hub Studs
#11
That is a good thing to bring up - I've just added 300 to "re-fill" a D axle, but started to wonder what the different internal volumes for the banjo would actually mean? Be interested to hear from those who are adopting the reduced levels and conducting enough miles to give meaningful evidence!
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#12
The banjo axle is less prone to leaking from the differential thanks to a sizable vent on the diff case, unlike the D type with a drilled set screw at the top of the torque tube which quite often gets blocked with paint or crud.
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#13
Don't forget the old trick of drilling a hole on each underside of the axle tubes somewhere close to the spring hangers. This allows the excess axle oil to lubricate the road or your drive, rather than the brake linings...
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#14
I fill my D type rear axle up to the bottom of the filler hole with no weight on the axle. (This is the only way I can fill it as otherwise the petrol tank is in the way.) I have had no problem with oil getting out to the brakes, despite using felt axle seals. The oil leaks out of the end of the torque tube instead.
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#15
I'd say your rear springs are tired David. I can top up the D type axle on TH with the car sat on its roadwheels.
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#16
I wouldn’t disagree with you, Hedd. I have every reason to think that the rear springs on my car are the originals.
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#17
I am confused about D axles and Banjo axles. Would someone please advise me on which axles are on a 1938 Ruby?
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#18
Hi Graham 

D axles are in two parts one of which is D shaped.

Banjo axles come in 3 parts with the centre bit shaped like a banjo.

I don’t have a D axle pic to hand but here is a pic of 3 banjo axles I posted recently.

Your car will have a D axle.

Cheers

Howard


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#19
Thanks, Howard. That's an impressive collection of axles. Does it mean that you have 3 cars sitting around without back axles?
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#20
Hi Graham

No just 2 cars. Both now with axles installed and a spare straight cut “trials” axle ready to swap over.

Cheers

Howard
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